Final stage of polishing all parts and buffing to show room shine. Nothing much I have not said. Rubbing compound washes off easily and usually are water base so it’s ok to water it down. After all surface are polished to satisfaction, give it a good rinse. Use a soft brush to remove and compound residue.
Polishing the transducer bracket is the second hardest task. Flat surface is probably the hardest to level simply because i don’t use any filler to fill the deep unlevel surface instead just sand down the surround-ing surface until they level. To make the task easier put the sand paper on a flat surface or use a sanding block. You don’t need to use a file for this piece. Use a 1500 grit and followed by 2000 grit. The same previous rules applies in this process. Wet sanding and take your time. The hardest area to sand is the area at the base of the metal rod on the bracket. The plastic on the headband is another challenge. It’s difficult to polish small object. At his point I think you have a good idea on how to tackle any surface, use file when you need to remove big rough surface and use the sand paper on a flat surface when dealing with flat surface. Next step is polishing using rubbing compound. This is not a polish, its more harsh than normal paint polish and very grainy. Make sure the parts that need to be polished are washed and dirt free before po-lishing. I will be using 2 grades of rubbing compound, like what I have mention earlier the goal is to use rough grit and gradually use finer grit. The 1500 grit and 2000 grit sand paper can only do so much, the rubbing compound will take where the sanding left off and bring it closer to a gleaming shine. You can hand polish or use a rotary tool. When using a rotary tool to polish make sure the polishing wheel is al-ways damp. Rubbing compound is like sand paste if it’s to dry it can burn and melt spastic surface. I water down the paste with tap water. Watering down the rubbing compound has the same result as wet sanding. When using a rotary tool keep the polishing wheel moving constantly to avoid burning the surface.
Removing any imperfections from the casting process 1st stage polishing with rough grit sand paper. Scratches are nothing more than deep uneaven surface. The first step to polishing is to make sure the surface is even out. Use rough sand paper and gradually use finer sand paper. There are 2 ways to get rid of scratched, fill the deep scratches and sand it to match the surrounding surface so that its level or sand the surrounding surface and level it to match the depth of the scratches with a suitable grit and gradually use finer sand paper. Use a concave file to roughly remove ant access plastic try not to press to hard and scratch any smooth surface. After that start sanding using a rough sand paper nothing more than 1500 grit, remember not to use too much pressure, i will be using automotive body work grade sand paper, just place the sand paper on the surface and sand. After all surface has been sand, start wet sanding using the same grit (1500 grit). Wet sanding will result in a finer and smoother surface compared to dry sanding. The goal is to make sure all surface is evenly smooth, in some cases you may find small patches still un-sand, these are deep dents on the surface and you may need to attack it from different angles. You can start with a finer 2000 grit, but this will result in more time spent getting rid of the rough edges. Spend more time wet sanding usind the 2000 grit, wet sanding wil also help spotting uneven surfaces. The steps are simple:- -File access plastic with file ( for removing large access plastic ) -1500 grit dry sand > 1500 grit wet sand ( for removing and even out the surface ) -2000 grit dry sanding > 2000 grit wet sanding ( fine tune the surface for smoother result ) The most important thing to remember is not to get carried away or apply to much pressure. Sand paper eats plastic, so try not to sand the same spot for too long, you may end up with an uneven flat spot. You have only one chance to get it right. The motive is to gradually smoothen the surface. There are 3 parts that need polishing the grill housing, transducer bracket and the L/R plastic on the headband.
Making new better grill allowing air to propagate more freely and improve appearance. Save the SR60 badge, the badge can be use to cover some of the holes on the new grill if the sound quality is to open or to airy. As I mention before the standard plastic grill is almost twice the thickness of the new aluminum grill. Its time to bring out the speaker grill, don’t bother drawing or scribing circles and cutting it out because you can get a good circular shape. The best way to do it is to find something the same size as the original grill. I went around the house with the house trying to find something the right size and it seem like a shot glass seem to be the prefect fit. I think I don’t have to write anything more the video says it all, try not to hold a big piece of the grill while try to cut. Cut out a small piece and slowly cut out the required shape. The grill will end up with sharp crooked edges and it won’t lay flat. Grind off the sharp edges and prepare it for paint. I painted it black and with extra lacquer for extra gloss. The grill housing has been polished that’s why its shining and I will post the video soon.
Removing standard plastic grill and preparing for new grill. Trying to remove the plastic grill on the transducer is next to impossible, so I decided to remove it and replace it with a new aluminum speaker grill. The speaker grill I have chosen has bigger holes and hopefully it will improve sound quality. First thing to do is to measure the groove gap, since the new grill is thinner it will displace the air chamber and having less air chamber will affect the sound quality. By knowing the standard distance I can always revert to the original setting. Add extra hot glue and don’t press to hard on the two halves of the transducer to offset the air chamber to its original distance. The new grill already has bigger holes, offsetting the air chamber to much cold effect the sound quality in a negative way. Place the transducer on a news paper to dampen some of the shock. Use a blunt piece of wood and nothing else. Make sure the wood has wide flat point and will cover a wide surface area. The idea is to force the glue to release the grill and at some point if the glue is to strong, break the grill and hopefully remove as much of the grill as possible. This will leave less grill material behind and less time spent removing the left over grill later. Place the wood as close to the outer side of the grill as possible, this will be more effective in breaking the glue as it doesn’t allow the grill to flex and absorb the shock. Place the wood to far to the middle to wards the SR60 badge and the wood will just punch through the grill leaving everything else still stuck to the grill housing. Once the grill is removed use a wire clipper to clip away the excess grill left behind. Take time doing this and try not to dig into the housing. Remove the left behind grill bit by bit. Attack the grill from different angle. Remember to take time doing this, after all the excess grill is removes use a knife to flatten and even the surface where the new grill will be glued. Use sand paper or a rotary tool is your have one.
After spending so much time and putting in so much effort this particular mod is by far the easiest to do. I couldn’t hear any difference as far as sound quality is concern. I could have taken the easy was out ant just cut a hole with a scissors, but this is something I will have to look at every time i put the headphone on so I wanted it to be a perfect circle. I will be using a copper pipe, heating it until its hot enough to melt through the ear pad. Copper will give out a shine when its hot, be sure to place a coaster underneath the ear pad to avoid scorching the kitchen cabinet. Give the pipe a slight twist to make sure the pipe cuts all the way through. Use a scissors to trim of any excess sponge. I decided to make the hole larger by burring it with a rotating sand bit. Repeat the same steps on the other side. IF THE VIDEO IS TO DARK ADJUST THE COLOR/CONTRAS/ BRIGHTNESS SETTING OF YOUR MONITOR. BEST SETTING IS DEFAULT. I'M IN THE PROCESS OF PUTTING VOICE OVER. MANY VIDEO STILL NEED TO BE UPLOADED, TOPIC REGARDING THIS MOD IS STILL AT EDITORIAL STAGES, I WILL DO MY BEST TO UPLOAD THEM. THANKS Visit : http://duniavideographer.blogspot.com/
3.5mm mini jack prep and soldering. Crash course in mini jack wiring and soldering. A basic recabling mod. First thing first, choose a cable and 3.5mm TRS mini jack to replace the standard one. A quick lesson on TRS jack or some call it mini stereo plug. This plug has 3 section or conductor, divided by the 2 black insulating rings. On a headphone stereo mini jack the Tip/Left channel is for left ear and Ring/Right or the middle contact is for the right ear and Ground/Sleeve or the last contact is for ground. The easiest way to remember which is left, right and ground is by holding the jack horizontally in front of you using your right hand, with the pointed tip pointing to your left. The Tip ( pointed end ) is Left channel since it pointing to your left, sometimes known as negative ( - ) and represented by red wire, the section next to the tip in between the two insulating black ring is the Ring or Right, sometimes known as positive ( + ) and the conductor with the most contact area is the sleeve or ground. Generally the transducer is like a speaker, it works with one wire supplying the audio signal and another for ground. Both the Left and Right channel in a headphone share the same conductor/sleeve on the mini jack for ground. Expose the copper strands on both white ground wire and twist them together, this end will be soldered to the ground contact on the mini jack. I don't use a wire stripper because i don't want to loose any copper strand, people usually talk about how good a wire is by the number of copper strands it has and they loose half of the number of strands when stripping the insulation. Melting and pulling of the insulator is a sure way of minimizing loss of strands. At this point it doesn't matter which of the 2 blue wires is left or right. I will show you how to tell them apart later. Right now just strip them and prepare them for soldering. Strip and expose all wire ends, Give then a twist to prepare them for tinning. Tinning helps the wire ends stick during soldering. Wires soak up molten tin in contact, saturating them with tin makes it easier during soldering minimizing contact time. Don't forget to tin the 3 contact on the TRS jack. Twist 2 of the white wire on the TRS end together this will be the ground. Unscrew the TRS jack and you will see 3 conductor, the longest contact with the crimp cable retainer is the where the 2 white ground cable will be solder, this is ground conductor, the smallest or shortest conductor is the Tip/Left and the one i have not mention about is the Sleeve/Right. At this point the cable is ready to be solder to the transducer, use a sucker to remove excess tin on the 2 contacts on the transducer. At this point the recabling is done for those who choose to do this mod. Use a multimeter to check if there are any loose or poor contact, if u don't have a multimeter use a battery and flash light bulb as a tester. Plug the finished wire to a music source and check if everything is working properly. This completes the wiring. My next video will be on improving the looks of the headphone. I plan to solder a female phono to the transducer. IF THE VIDEO IS TO DARK ADJUST THE COLOR/CONTRAS/ BRIGHTNESS SETTING OF YOUR MONITOR. BEST SETTING IS DEFAULT. I'M IN THE PROCESS OF PUTTING VOICE OVER. MANY VIDEO STILL NEED TO BE UPLOADED, TOPIC REGARDING THIS MOD IS STILL AT EDITORIAL STAGES, I WILL DO MY BEST TO UPLOAD THEM. THANKS Visit : http://duniavideographer.blogspot.com/
The next step to solving the Grado cable dilemma is what cable to use and preparing the cable. What type of brand of cable you choose is up to your budget. I will make a shorter cable to replace the long standard and a smaller mini jack, shorter means lighter even thought its the same dimension as the standard cable, the cable that i choose has thicker and more strands. The length of the 2 cable from the Y splitter to each of the transducer is long enough. I will only be shortening the cable length from the mini jack to the Y splitter. The standard cable is a 4 core cable, there are 4 wire going from the mini jack to the Y splitter, 2 ground, 1 positive and 1 negative. From the Y splitter the 4 wires are divided into pairs, 1 pair (negative and ground) lead to the left transducer and the other pair (positive and ground) goes to the right transducer. If you are confuse about how to connect 4 wires on a 3 connector mini jack, the answer is both of the ground wire can share the same ground contact, only the Positive and Negative need to be kept separated. The cable i choose is a 4 core Canare cable, 2 white wires and 2 blue wires, i will use the 2 white as ground. To further lighten the cable, strip the outer cable insulation exposing the steel braid. Run a cutter knife along the entire length of the cable just enough to slice the insulator only, try not to push the blade in to deep and damage the steel braid and the core inside. I will use the steel braid cut from the cable to insulate the cable from the Y splitter to the transducer. Roughly measure out 2x the length from the Y splitter to the transducer. Cut the steel braid and remove the wire sleeve. IF THE VIDEO IS TO DARK ADJUST THE COLOR/CONTRAS/ BRIGHTNESS SETTING OF YOUR MONITOR. BEST SETTING IS DEFAULT. I'M IN THE PROCESS OF PUTTING VOICE OVER. MANY VIDEO STILL NEED TO BE UPLOADED, TOPIC REGARDING THIS MOD IS STILL AT EDITORIAL STAGES, I WILL DO MY BEST TO UPLOAD THEM. THANKS Visit : http://duniavideographer.blogspot.com/
Step by step on how open the transducer housing using regular house hold product. I will be using fresh boiling hot water to soften the glue that hold the two halves of the transducer housing. Have a cloth and cotton bud ready to wipe ant remaining water on the housing. The whole idea is to wedge the wooden peg in the grove between the two halves of the transducer housing. The peg will constantly push the two halves of the transducer housing apart while hot water melts the glue, at this point just sit back and count the seconds. Try not to splash any water on the housing, slowly pour from the rim of the plate. If you are lucky the peg will push the housing apart all the way, but sometime you need to take it out and give a pry it open. Since the glue has melted it doesn't take to much effort. Keep the grill face down to prevent water water dripping into the transducer and onto the voice coil diaphragm, so keep the grill facing down. If the glue is still hard, repeat the process with freshly boiled water. Once the transducer housing is apart, quickly wipe everything and let it dry, give it a firm tap to let out any excess water. Plug the headphone it into a music player and test it to make sure it not damaged. If unsure leave it to dry before proceeding to the next step. IF THE VIDEO IS TO DARK ADJUST THE COLOR/CONTRAS/ BRIGHTNESS SETTING OF YOUR MONITOR. BEST SETTING IS DEFAULT. I'M IN THE PROCESS OF PUTTING VOICE OVER. MANY VIDEO STILL NEED TO BE UPLOADED, TOPIC REGARDING THIS MOD IS STILL AT EDITORIAL STAGES, I WILL DO MY BEST TO UPLOAD THEM. THANKS Visit : http://duniavideographer.blogspot.com/
Experimental video about lack of safe fresh drinking water Visit : http://duniavideographer.blogspot.com/