http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Brake-Controller-Install-2001-Ford-F150.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2001 Ford F-150 we are going to install part number 90885-3035P, this includes the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 brake controller with the Ford adapter. On the back of this vehicle we are going to install part number 118242 from Tow Ready. The first thing we need to do is find the port for the brake control package. On this year Ford it is pretty easy, right next to the data port here. Right to the left of it you can see it right here. So our adapter cord we will plug that into the port right here. Now we will plug this other half in the back of the brake controller and now we will find a spot for our bracket. A nice thing about the P2 brake controller is you can mount it vertical so you get more choices in mounting the brake controller itself on different vehicles. 00:52 We know where we are going to put our brackets so lets make some marks on the dashboard and install the bracket. Before we drill we can reach up in there and make sure there is nothing in the way. It looks like there are two layers of plastic so I think we will be okay in between. Now install the set screws into the brake controller. Next we can take up the cord and wrap it up with a zip tie. We have got everything mounted up and you can tell right away that our brake controller has the two lights on and that means that it is giving power to the brake controller and we are good to go. Lets go out back and start changing out the 4-pole to a 7-pole connector. 01:52 At the back of the truck underneath and we removed the spare tire and we are going to look at the driver side frame rail. You are going to see the connection point right here and we will push down this tab right here, there is a little lock. You should be able to pull it apart. Sometimes this little red divider gets pulled out with it but it just pushes right back into position. We are going to take our harness to our 7-pole connector and we are going to run it through the last brace here on the frame and just follow it back through the wiring and pull it out and we are going to snap the two halves together. Take the other half and plug it in here. Look at this ground screw right here. Take that apart and attach our ring terminal for the ground. The next thing we are going to do is mount the 7-pole. We are going to use a couple of separate part numbers for that. We are going to use PK12711U which is our OEM hardware bracket and we are also going to use PK11926 hardware kit for the bracket. Take the mounting bracket and we are going to attach it directly to the bottom of the bumper. We will run the wire harness through and connect it to the 7-pole itself. Push it together and push that white lock into place and you will bolt that to the bracket. 03:36 Now we are done with the back half of the vehicle, now we need to get underneath the hood of the vehicle and add a couple of fuses and relays. We are underneath the hood and we need to get to the power distribution box, remove the lid. There is a variety of fuses and relays that come with the kit. On this part here you will have to go to your owners manual in your vehicle and it will tell you where the tow package fusees and relays go. In this case we are only giving power to our brake controller so we do not have to worry about that circuit. However we do not have 12 volt power going out back so we need to install a fuse for that. That is going to be this square fuse and it is going to get installed in this socket right here. Now we can go out back and test the connector for all of the functions. We have got our truck hooked up to our load or it could be a trailer, and we will use our manual override so we have got numbers so we have got a good solid connection and also the C tells us we are connected. The small knob up here is our gain which controls how much voltage goes out to the brakes on the trailer. All the way forward is basically full blast and all the way back is basically off. Somewhere in between you will find a setting for your trailer. There you have it for part number 90885-3035P and part number 118242.
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Hitch-install-2000-Pontiac-Montana.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2000 Pontiac Montana long wheel base we will be installing Hidden Hitch part number 87410. This installation will also apply for Draw-Tite hitch part number 75278. Then over on the passenger side I want to point out the mounting locations for our trailer hitch. You can see we have got an exhaust bracket that is held here in place with two bolts. We are going to be removing those two bolts using those weld nuts in the frame as two attaching points for the trailer hitch. At the forward side of the frame and at the rear side of the frame we are going to be drilling 1/ 2 inch holes using those as both the front and rear attaching points on the passenger side. However on this side you can see we have got one of those holes covered by the load leveling compressor bracket. 00:37 What we are going to do is take the bolts out that are existing in the frame but also we will drill a hole in the bracket so we can gain access to second weld nut. We are going to leave that loose for the time being until we get the carriage bolts into position and we will hang the hitch by those. Then we will use the hitch as a template to drill out all of our holes. Starting over on the passenger side I am going to take a marker and mark out the holes that we are going to need to drill. We are going to need the one here at the rear portion of the frame marked and at the forward side you will see we have got two existing holes in the hitch and the hole that you need and we want to drill the forward most hole so we are going to mark that one. 01:09 Moving over to the driver side we are going to mark out the rear hole in the trailer hitch and then we are also going to mark the forward attaching point which is going to be drilled through the load leveling compressor bracket. I do want to make note on the bracket for the load leveling compressor that before drilling the hole I just want to remind you that there is a weld nut on the back side of the hole that we are going to be drilling. You can either leave the bracket in position like it is and drill your holes. What I am doing here is putting a spacer block in between the bracket of the frame to help insure that I do not penetrate the weld nut. Now that we have got all of our holes drilled we are going to put the hitch up in to position. At this point we are going to be using the 10 millimeter bolts that are provided with the installation kit. On the driver side we actually need to be putting the hitch in between the bracket and the frame and then over on the passenger side, when we attach to the weld nuts we want to put the hitch up but we also need to put the exhaust bracket up as well. 02:25 With all of our holes drilled we are going to start fishing our bolts into the frame through our drilled holes. We are going to start on the passenger side at the forward most attaching point. We are going to take the 1/ 2 inch bolt leader that is provided with our installation kit. We are going to take and feed it from the bottom of the frame through the hole that we just drilled and back out our access hole which is this larger oblong hole just rearward. We are next going to take our spacer block with the square punched hole in it. Feed it on to the bolt leader and then we will take our 1/ 2 inch carriage bolt. We will take and wrap the threads of the bolt leader around the threads of the carriage bolt. Then we will start by feeding the block into the hole followed by the carriage bolt and we will pull those down into position. Then to the carriage bolt we are going to put two of the 1-1/ 2 by two inch spacer blocks with the round hole. We are actually going to put that on the bottom of the hitch followed by a lock washer and hex nut. Then moving on to the forward attaching point we are going to be using the handle nut which is provided with our installation kit. What we are going to do is take and feed it through this access hole on the inboard side of the frame and the idea is to get the weld nut portion of the handle nut inside the frame and over the drilled hole at the rear attaching point. 03:59 What I am going to do is manipulate the handle nut. Insert it into the frame to see if we get it aligned directly over the hole in the frame. From there we are going to take the 1/ 2 inch hex bolt along with another lock washer and thread that in to the handle nut. We want to repeat that set up for the rear attaching point on the driver side as well then we will start torquing our bolts down. When torquing the bolts down you want to make sure you verify with the directions the specific torque rating for each of the bolts. With all of the bolts torqued down our installation is complete. Now we have got our hitch installed we are going to give you a couple of final dimensions that will help make choosing your hitch accessories a little bit easier. From the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is going to measure 11-1/ 2 inches and from the center of the pin hole to clear the rear edge of the bumper is going to be approximately six inches. This will conclude the installation of Hidden Hitch part number 87410 on a 2000 Pontiac Montana.
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-hitch-install-2011-hyundai-sonata.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2011 Hyundai Sonata we will be Draw-Tite hitch part number 24853. And this installation will also apply for Hidden Hitch part number 60269. Alright, we are underneath the vehicle and the first thing we need to do is go ahead and lower the exhaust down to get that out of our way so we can work. This particular vehicle has single exhaust which is strictly on the passenger side. Some models will have dual exhaust so you will need to repeat this procedure for both sides. We will need to lower it down off of its rearmost hanger, which is just rear of the muffler itself. And if you move forward, almost even with the axle, there is a second hanger we are going to need to lower the exhaust off of. We are going to need to go ahead and remove, not only the hanger, but the bracket. 0:39 So we are going to go ahead and unbolt it from the frame. There are two nuts holding it into position that we are going to take it off of. The forward hanger we can actually unbolt as well, from the exhaust system. Before we do that though, we want to go ahead and put some form of support strap across the main tube here. Because, once we do lower it off the second hanger, this system could down and possibly damage it. With that lowered down, I am actually going to go back to the front hanger and I am going to go ahead and unbolt the rubber hanger from the exhaust bracket. This piece here is going to be removed and not put back up. The rubber hanger is actually going to bolt to the hitch once we get it back into position. 1:37 Next we will move on to the heat shield which was above the exhaust. We need to go ahead and lower it down. There are four nuts holding it into place. With the heat shield lowered, we can now go ahead and point out the mounting holes that we are going to be using to install our trailer hitch one here at the rear side of the frame and one more towards the forward side. The holes that we are going to be using are actually covered up by tap right now. Into those holes what we are going to do is fish in carriage bolt and block combinations. We will be using our forward most hole as our access point. You will notice that they actually provide two different length carriage bolts for each attaching point. There is a 1 inch and a 1-1/4 inch. The 1-1/4 inch one we will be using at the rearmost attaching point. The 1 inch one we will be using at the forward most attaching point. To fish those into the frame, we will be using the 3/8 bolt leaders that are provided with the installation kit. 2:39 And what we will do is we will start with the rearmost hole. We will take the threaded end of the bolt leader and go ahead and slide it up through the attaching hole. We will route it towards the front of the vehicle, back out. Alright, we will next take the block and go ahead and slide it onto the bolt leader, followed by the 1-1/4 inch long, 3/8 carriage bolt. And you can see we just thread the bolt leader around the threads of the carriage bolt. First feed the block inside the frame, followed by the carriage bolt and pull them down into position. And then for the forward attaching point, we are going to do what is called a reverse pull. In this case what we will do is go ahead and set everything up independent of the frame. We will go ahead and slide the block on the bolt leader and go ahead and wrap the carriage bolt, and again this is the 1 inch length carriage bolt. And then we will go ahead and actually take the carriage bolt and put it in first, followed by the block and pull that right back down into place. We just want to go ahead and repeat that set up for the passenger side as well. And then we can go ahead and put the hitch up into position. 3:37 It might be a good idea to get a second set of hands to help you put the hitch up in position. You just want to make sure that the hitch goes up and over the exhaust. And we are going to be attaching the hitch to the carriage bolt using a conical tooth washer and hex nut. OK, with the hitch up in position, we are going to go through now and go ahead and torque our bolts down. You want to verify with the directions the specific torque rating for each of the bolts. OK, with the bolts torqued down, we are going to go now and take our heat shield, that we had removed earlier, and we are going to need to trim that out, to go around the hitch. There is a diagram listed in the instructions and you want to follow that outline and go ahead and cut the heat shield out. And then with the heat shield trimmed out, we can go ahead and put it back into place. And again, if you have a dual exhaust model, you want to repeat that for both sides. At this rear rubber hanger, we are now going to be attaching it to the tab on the trailer hitch. And we are going to be doing that using the new 8 millimeter bolt that is provided with the installation kit. And then we go ahead and put the forward hanger back into place as well. And now that we have our hitch installed, we are going to go ahead and give you a couple of final install dimensions that will help make choosing your hitch accessories a little bit easier. From the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is going to measure 11-1/4 inches. And from the center of the pin hole to clear the rear edge of the bumper is going to be approximately 5-1/2 inches. This will conclude the installation of Draw-Tite hitch part number 24853 on a 2011 Hyundai Sonata.
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Review-Sportrack-Evader-Bike-Rack.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today we are going to review part number A30403XT, the SportRack Evader three bike carrier for 1-1/4 and 2 inch hitches. This anti-rattle, anti-sway and anti-theft rack avoids pretty much all things bad when it comes to carrying your bikes. The evader sports anti-sway cradles as mentioned before, as well as an anti-wobble threaded hitch pin and locks for both the bikes and the bike rack. This is a hitch mounted rack and the adapter sleeve enables the bike rack to fit both 2 inch and 1-1/4 inch receivers. And it has soft, rubber anti-sway cradles which prevent bike-to-bike and bike-to-vehicle contact. It holds bikes in place without damaging paint and secures bikes with the rubber straps. The cradles also slide along the arms to accommodate many different types of bikes. And the dual arms offer stability for bikes during transport. The arms pull down with the pull of a pin, for convenient storage. And a bike adapter bar may be required to mount some bikes on the rack. The upright mast tilts forward to get into the back of your SUV or trunk, as needed. And the integrated cable lock in the rack arms secures the bikes to the carrier. Now, the receiver bolt comes along with just a regular anti-rattle hitch bolt and another one that also accompanies a lock that you can use to secure your rack to the vehicle itself. 1:24 We will go ahead and show you all of these features and more in greater detail as we place this bike into the rack. Now, first off I am going to show you how this switches from a 2 inch to 1-1/4 inch hitch. You will notice that there is a little cross section here. And this is actually a sleeve that goes over the 1-1/4 portion of it and simply just slides off the top like so. And now it is ready for a 1-1/4 inch application. And since we are going to be using a 2 inch hitch today, we will go ahead and put the shim on. 1:54 Now we will go ahead and actually place it into the two inch hitch and show you the anti-rattle bolt. Alright, we will go ahead and set this into the hitch. Line up the holes and then we will go ahead and install our locking anti-sway bolt. One shake test and it is ready to go. And once the locking hitch pin is installed, just go ahead and take the lock and lock it into place. Next we are going to show you the tilt feature. Now, to do this there is a pin at the base of the center mast. You just pull that clip out of the other side. Pull the pin and it will come and tilt towards you. This way you can get into the back of your SUV or trunk. Next we are going to show you how the arms themselves fold down for easier storage. What happens is there is a pin that you just unsnap, pull out and then let the arms fall down. And then reinstall the pin to make sure they stay secure as you store. 3:05 Now we will go ahead and show you the cradles of the bike rack. As I have stated before, these do move front and rear. You simply maneuver them like so and they will stay in place. They also come with an anti-sway cradle, shown here, and the rubber straps which secure the bike to the actual rack. Moving forward, you see the second lock here. We have installed it and it is just a cable lock you pull out like so. You wrap it around your bikes and on the other side is the actual locking mechanism itself, or the locking pin, which you simply put on like so. And then lock it into place. Before we put the bike onto the rack, let us go ahead and undo all of the straps and get it ready. And before we install the bike, I am going to go ahead and bend the cradles down just to make the install of the bike a little bit easier. Now that we have shown off a little bit of the features here, let us go ahead and put a bike on this rack and show you how it works. And you just swing the cradles up. You can see that the groves inside the cradles here are actually housing the cables really well. Then we just strap it down. And then we put down the anti-sway cradle here. Tighten it down as well. Now your bike is secure and ready for transport. But before we go, we are going to go ahead and lock this down too, just for a little bit of added security. Pull out the cable lock like so. And depending on how many bikes you have, you wrap it around the frames of those. You bring it back and lock it on this, here. And it is secure. And to unlock it, there is the key lock there and that is how you get them off. And there you have it for part number A30403XT, the SportRack Evader bike rack.
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Firestone-Load-Assist-Install-2009-Dodge-Ram-1500.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2009 Dodge Ram 1500 we are going to install part number F8620 from Firestone. This is their Work-Rite Load Assist. To give you an idea of what is going on the new Firestone part actually replaces the factory bump stop right here. When you have the truck fully loaded, the only way it is going to stop is when it hits this bump stop and goes down to the axle. You can see we have got quite a bit of difference so if we put a load in the back of the truck or bounce up and down the road you can see how much travel this has. 00:28 With the new part installed it will take up that extra space and the vehicle will not sag as much on your load. The first step involved is to get the truck in the air we are going to use a standard jack stand to hold everything up. And we need to remove the rear tire. This is the factory bump stop right here, a better view of it. Basically we just have to remove it. You can pry it out or some cases maybe you can pull it out on your own. The truck is already prepped, lets go back to the kit and do some preassembly there. We have the parts assembled here for one side of the system. 01:06 We will cover the parts real quick. Obviously this is the new spring constructed of polyurethane material and then we have the brackets that hold everything together. You have this round plate which fits on top of the spring and then you have this ring that sits on top of that and then you have these two pieces that clamp over the existing bump stop on the vehicle so when you bolt it all together it clamps everything together. A couple of options, when you set it up you have a choice of using a couple of different spacers. Basically what this does is allows you to adjust the spring up and down. Say for instance the carpeting right here is the bump stop on the truck. You want to leave about 1/ 4 inch of space in between the two so it will give you a lot of space in here. You can lower it to take up the gap. Also if you want the springs to work sooner like in the truck you use in a constant loaded condition you probably want to add the spacers to have it already working right off the bat. 02:00 You get two different sized spacers to do that with. If by chance you did want to add spacers later which you can, undo the bolts, take it apart, add the spacers, reassemble, and then reinstall on the truck. Start with the spring. Since we are not going to use the spacers we are going to use the short bolt. If we did we would use this long bolt. Take the short bolt and the flat washer and install it where it comes out the end right here. It is a good idea to use a socket and extension and install the plate. You can see how the bolt holes are sunk in, that is because the bolts get installed like this so you want to have the plate mounted like this where the studs are pointing up. We will add our lock nut to it and just simply tighten it down at this point. Torque these down as specified in the instructions. We will do some more preassembly. Put the ring, center it to keep it from moving around and then take the clamp and do one side and run the bolt through and loosely install the flange nut. Take the middle one and run it down about half way so we still have some flexible room but it will hold it in place while I deal with the other side. 03:20 Lets go over to the truck and start assembling. We will slip it into place. As you can see here the clamp will fit over the edge and that will help hold everything in place while we install the other side. You can see how it is working on there right now so just snug down the bolts. Once you have everything snugged down go all the way around evenly and tighten them up as specified in the instructions. We have got our work rite installed so lets reinstall the back wheel and see what we have got. Once you have it installed you want to double check to make sure you have about 1/ 4 inch of space in between and not much more than that. If it is barely touching it will be fine also. Again if you need to adjust the height you can use the spacers in between the spring and the plate. Now we have got everything reassembled. You want to take it for a test run unloaded like it is now and then you may want to take a test run with it fully loaded. You may want to add a spacer or a spacer depending on how you originally installed it. There you have it for part number F8620 from Firestone.
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-wiring-install-2007-lexus-RX350.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2007 Lexus RX350 we are going to be installing the 4-pole harness part number 18002. The Lexus that we are going to show you today has a unique situation to it. On our website we indicate the wiring for the Lexus is going to be modulite part number 119176. This particular Lexus does have a factory installed tow package that we are going to be able to tap into so we are going to show you how to locate that. The port is located in the rear cargo area of the vehicle underneath the flooring over on the driver side. We are going to need to remove most of this interior section. There is a particular order of operations that we need to abide by to get all of the components out. 00:38 We are going to start by removing the forward most cargo door. We need to pull back the facing at the front section first. There are push rivets that are holding that in place so just pull it up. We need to unscrew the hinges that are holding the flooring into place. There is one screw per side for these hinges. We next remove the forward most cargo storage area. There are two push rivets holding this into position. One on the driver side and one on the passenger side. We are going to be using a rivet removal tool. We need to slide it underneath and just pry it up. 01:11 Next we are going to remove the front storage compartment. To access it we need to release the two coverings and there are buttons at the rear threshold to do that. Again, we have got two push rivets holding it in place. One on the driver side and one on the passenger side. Next we will remove the driver side floor covering and there are actually four bolts holding it into position, two here at the rear side and two at the forward side. Next we will remove the rear threshold piece. There are two push pins that are holding this into position. One on the driver and one on the passenger side. When removing the threshold piece you need to watch the releases for the cargo buttons. Make sure you clear the releases for the cargo doors. When you get the threshold piece to release you need to press these in. Finally we want to remove the driver side storage compartment. We have got two fasteners holding it in position. One push pin here and one here at the inside of the cargo area. 02:22 With all of those components removed, if we look at the main wiring harness feeding the tail light assembly on the driver side, there is a port located right here and that is our tow package port that we are going to be tapping into. Unfortunately this time the manufacturers do not offer an after market plug-in for this port. So what we are going to do is cut this end off and we are going to wire our wiring harness directly into it. Before cutting the end off I am going to remove the fuses activating our tow package so that we do not shorten anything when we cut the wires. You can locate this fuse underneath the hood in our accessory fuse box. If you remove the lid and look at the top side, it is labeled towing 30 amp fuse. We will put that back in when we are finished wiring in our 4-pole. Then back at the port we will cut the wires. The 4-pole harness comes with scotch locks to make our connections with. However I am going to use some standard butt connectors. We tested previously to find out which wires carry which function. The green is our right turn, right brake signal. Yellow is our left turn, left brake signal. The blue wire is our running light lead and the white is the ground. It is pretty similar to the wires that we have got on our 4-pole harness. The white is our ground, the yellow is our left turn, left brake. Green right turn, right brake, and the brown is our running light lead. 03:52 We want to strip back some of the jacketing on each one of the wires. With our wiring stripped back we just want to apply the butt connector. We will the wire into one end and then we will crimp that down. Take the adjoining wire and slide it in and crimp it down as well. Then we just want to tape up those connections. Then for storage of the 4-pole we have two options. We recommend that you leave it inside the vehicle. Store it in the storage compartment over here and then just pull it out the rear cargo door whenever you want to use it. However if you do need it underneath the vehicle permanently there is a grommet there right below the connector. You can just put a splice in that, route the 4-pole through there and then you can leave it underneath the vehicle permanently. From there we just want to put our fuse back into position and reinstall our flooring and then our installation will be complete. With the interior reinstalled we will show you how you can store your 4-pole. When you want to use it again just pull it out the rear door and you can close the door on it. You do not have to worry about it being pinched. The weather stripping at the rear will prevent that from happening. You can see I can still move it side to side freely. With that, that will conclude the installation of 4-pole part number 18002 on a 2007 Lexus RX350.
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-fifth-wheel-2010-ford-f150-V55080.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2010 Ford F-150 we are going to install fifth wheel bracket kit part number V55080 from Valley. The first thing we are going to start off with is mounting the bracket to the frame of the vehicle. In this case it does not seem like we have to lower the exhaust or move the spare tire. We will show you where the bracket mounts up to the frame. It is going to be using these two existing holes in the frame and there will be a U-bolt that will be holding everything together up front and it will sit like this on the vehicle. Take it down and install the hardware and put our bracket in place. 00:33 This is our U-bolt we are going to use to install with. We are actually going to use a bolt leader that comes supplied with the kit to help hold everything in position while we put the bracket in place so we do not lose the U-bolt in the frame. Then we will take the bolt leader and thread it through the bracket and we will install our 7/ 16 flat washer, lock washer, and nut. We have got the passenger side done, lets go over to the driver side and repeat the same process. 01:03 Now we will install our bracket going towards the back of the truck on here on the passenger side. It is going to fit over the rail here. Next we will install the clamp that will hold everything in place. It is going to be this flat plate, steel, here and this hex bolt. Put on the conical tooth washer and the nylon lock nut. Then we will run our bolt on the bottom. We have got the passenger side done, we will repeat the same process back over on the driver side. Next we will start positioning the frame rails in the bed of the truck. We will start with the rail going towards the back of the vehicle and we want to measure out from the inside edge of the bed itself to this edge of the bed rail itself. Once you have the distance measured per the instructions we will center the rail left and right in the bed. 01:50 We have got our first rail marked into place. We will take our uprights for our fifth wheel hitch that will be used and we will use that to position our second rail. Then we will mark its location on the bed too. One more final check and then we can start marking and drilling our holes through the bed. We will drill out our holes and start with 1/ 4 inch bit and we will go aiming for the center of our square hole however it is going to go right down a diagonal slope so find the center and go at an angle to be flat on the slope. Now we have got the pilot hole drilled out and follow up with a 5/ 8 drill bit. We will slide our rails back into position. The next thing we are going to do is start installing our hardware. We are going to install our block which is going to go in the arch part of the rail itself to give it support when it is tightened down. If our rail is sitting on top of the flat part, you want to use the block and that is it. If we use it on a gully like this part here we would use our block and this sitting on top of the block. 02:48 We have got our bolts installed, lets go underneath and attach some nuts and washers. On the bottom we will add our flat washer, lock washer, and nut. On the bottom, if the corrugation goes up away from the bracket then you definitely want to add another spacer around the bolt to take up that space too. Repeat this process on the other side of the rail. Then we will go towards the front of the vehicle and mark and drill our holes out again and repeat that same process. We will take one more check and make sure everything fits okay. Then we will snug down the bolts first, test again, and if it works fine we will torque the brackets to the bed rails. At this point it would be a good idea to have an extra set of hands to hold the nut on the bottom. At this point we can torque down the bolts as specified in the instructions. We will do one more check. The next thing we need to do is tighten the frame brackets to the frame itself. Now we will tighten down our U-bolts to the front bracket and do this evenly on both sides of the U-bolt. With all of our brackets tightened down, that will be the last part we need to do. There you have it for our install part number V55080 from Valley.
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-hitch-install-2009-mercury-sable.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2009 Mercury Sable we are going to be installing Draw-Tite hitch part number 36360. This installation will also apply for Hidden Hitch part number 90090. Looking underneath the vehicle we are going to start over on the driver side frame rail. The first thing we want to do is lower the exhaust down so we have some more working room. The rear most hanger is actually attached to the bottom of the frame. There are two bolts holding it into place. We want to lower that down first. With this rear hanger we want to take the frame mounted portion off of the vehicle completely. What we are going to have to do is cut this arm off of that mounting flange and have to accommodate the trailer hitch later on. 00:42 To aid in the removal I am going to use a spray lubricant like a WD-40. As I stated earlier you need to cut the end off of our exhaust bracket and it is basically the curved piece that was going up inside the frame. Take it and grind it down right there. With that removed, if we move forward towards the rear axle in the center of the vehicle there is a second hanger that we are going to want to lower the exhaust off of. Again I am going to be using a spray lubricant to make this a little easier. Before removing that hanger I do want to put a support strap across the main exhaust tube. There is a chance that once we move it off this hanger that it could down and possibly damage the system. 01:18 Now that we have got the exhaust lowered down starting over on the driver side we are going to point out the mounting holes that we are going to be using to attach our trailer hitch to the vehicle. You can see here at the rear of the frame we have got a couple of existing holes. The oblong holes just forward of the two weld nuts is going to provide our forward most attaching point at the bottom of the frame. We are going to be using the two weld nuts that were holding the exhaust hanger into place as well. Then here at the rear of the frame on the inboard side there is an existing hole and again we are going to be using a carriage bolt and block assembly to mount the hitch in place there. Over on the passenger side it is a little bit different. They have what are called unthreaded weld nuts and that is these three here. Two at the bottom and one on the inboard side of the frame. What we are going to be using are these 12 millimeter form threading bolts and what we are going to do is put these in here and get them started and we are going to take a ratchet or in our case an air gun and run those in and out a few times. What that is going to do is form its own threads as the bolt goes in. It is a good idea to do that first before we get started. 02:19 With our new forms fitted over on the passenger side we are going to put the hardware in over on the driver side. We are going to start with the forward most attaching point at the bottom of the frame. We are going to be ing inside the frame into that hole the one by three inch block along with the 1/ 2 inch carriage bolt and to accomplish this we are going to be using the 1/ 2 inch bolt leader which comes with the installation kit. What we want to do is take the threaded end and it from the bottom of the frame through the attaching hole and rotate that back out the access hole at the end of the frame. First take the block and slide it on to the bolt leader followed by the carriage bolt which you are going to take and wrap the threads of the bolt leader around the threads of the carriage bolt and the block inside the frame followed by the carriage bolt and pull them down into position. Using the same bolt leader we are going to do the same thing for the rear attaching point on the inboard side of the frame. Into this weld nut we are going to be using the same carriage bolt but we are going to be using a smaller block, one by two inch. We are not going to fully pull the bolt through yet. We are just going to leave the bolt leader attached. What we are going to do when we put the hitch up is slide the bolt leader through the hole in the hitch and pull it through once everything is in place. 03:26 We are going to put the hitch up into position. You want to make sure on the driver side that you go up and over the exhaust and pull the bolt leader through the hole in the hitch. To the form threading bolts over on the passenger side you do want to add a conical tooth washer when putting them up into position. Next we are going to pull the side mounted bolt on the driver side through and to that we will add a conical tooth washer and hex nut. Finally we want to put the exhaust hanger back up over here on the driver side. At this location we are not only going to be using the new longer eight millimeter bolts that are provided with the installation kit but we are also going to need to put the thick spacer block in between the hitch and the bracket itself. I am going to start tightening the bolts down now. We are first going to go through and hand tighten them and then we will go through and torque them to their specified torque rating. Now with all of the hardware in place and the bolts torqued down to their specifications we just want to put the exhaust back up on its hangers and our installation will be complete. Now that we have got our hitch installed we are going to give you a couple of final dimensions which will help make choosing your hitch accessories a little bit easier. From the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is going to measure 11-1/ 2 inches and from the center of the pin hole to clear the rear edge of the bumper is going to be approximately six inches. That will conclude the installation of Draw-Tite hitch part number 36360.
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Wiring-Harness-Install-2003-Dodge-Caravan.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today at Etrailer.com on this 2003 Dodge Caravan we are going to be installing part number 118376 from Tow Ready. The first thing we are going to do is gain access to our trunk. We are going to need to remove the fascia here and remove a couple of clips so we are able to pull back our panel a little bit to gain access to our wiring harness. We are going to start removing our bumper fascia. We are going to use a rivet tool remover and just popping them up. It is a pretty simple task. If you do not have rivet tool remover you can just take a flat head screwdriver and slide it under and just pry up. That will also work as well. We are just going to take this and set it aside. Then we are going to take the rivet tool remover and start unclipping a couple of clips from here. 00:49 The reason why we pulled this back is because we have to gain access to the hole back here to where we can run our harness through the hole here and out to plug into our tail light harness. Next we are going to remove the driver side tail light. To remove the tail light we just take these plastic rivets and just remove them and the tail light assembly will come out. As you can see our tail light assembly just falls out like that. Now that we have our tail light loose we are going to disconnect it. We are going to take the little red tab and pull it out to where we can disconnect it. We are going to set our tail light aside. 01:49 We are going to take our wiring harness, and as you can see it has got male and female end. We are just going to match them up, plug them in. Then we are going to take our grommet and pull it out. We are going to cut it right here to where we can pull it off for now. We are going to take the rest of our wiring harness and we are going to feed it through the access hole until we get the entire harness inside the sheet metal. We are going to leave the connection point that is going to go back into our tail light out. We are going to take our grommet and put it back on our new connection point and put it back in place. Then we are going to take our tail light and reconnect our tail light and reinstall it on the vehicle. Make sure when connecting it that you push that locking tab over and then take your plastic rivets that we removed earlier and just put those back in position. 03:00 Now we can go on to the inside of the vehicle and show you what is next. We just want to remove the storage panel. We are going to be taking our 4-pole and pulling it through there and that is where we are going to be storing it. Pull our ground through this part and we are going to be attaching it to the existing ground here. We are going to remove this nut and attach our ground to it. Now that our ground is done we are going to take our modulite box and attach it to the inner sheet metal using the two sided sticky tape that is on the other side of the box. We want to make sure that this spot is cleaned before you adhere to it. Remove the film and take the modulite box and stick it in position. With our modulite box in position we are going to take our paneling and put it back in position. Then you want to put the fascia back in. Now we are going to show you how to use your wiring harness. Our wiring harness is stowed away in the jack storage compartment. You just want to remove the storage panel, pull out your 4-pole harness like so, then you just want to hang it out of your rear. Make sure you keep it away from the center hook so it does not smash or cut any of your wires. Then you just want to close your trunk. And as you can see you can pull out the length that you need for your accessories. That will conclude the installation for part number 118376 on a 2003 Dodge Caravan.
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Hitch-Install-2011-Subaru-Outback.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2011 Subaru Outback we are going to install part number 87568 from Hidden Hitch. This will also apply to part number 75673 from Draw-Tite. First thing we will show you is where the hitch mounts up to the frame of the vehicle. Right now we are looking at the passenger side of the vehicle, you will see there are two rubber plugs at the bottom of the frame. Here and here. These plugs get removed so we can use those holes. We will do this on both sides of the vehicle. :28 Looking at the driver side, we are going to remove three rubber hangers from the exhaust and lower it. We will also run a strap underneath the exhaust so we can lower it at a controlled pace. That way we will not damage anything taking it down. We will also spray down our rubber hangers with some lubricant and make them a little easier to push off. Now we can use our strap to slowly lower our exhaust. 1:07 Next thing we are going to do is lower our heat shield. It is going to be these four bolts right here. Here are the rubber plugs we will pull out. Next, what we need to do is drill an access hole at the bottom of frame. We are going to start from this point right here and go about 2 inches out. Then we will drill it out using an 1-1/8 inch hole saw. We can now install the hardware into the frame of the vehicle. You want to note that there are two different sized blocks that come with the kit. The small block goes toward the rear bumper and the 3 inch one goes up towards the front of the vehicle. We will take our lead, push it through the hole we are going to use, out our access hole, push in our block, push it in the frame, thread on our bolt, pull all that through and out. Now we will put some protective coating around the hole here to seal off the bare steel. Next we will install the hitch, it is a good idea to have an extra set of hands. We are going to hold the hitch up to the frame and install a nut and conical tooth washer on the bolt that is closest to the bumper. Now we will do the attachments going to the front of the vehicle. The only thing special here is to add the special washer, that is going to go between the hitch and the frame of the vehicle. Then we can use our conical tooth washer and nut. We will go up to the driver side and do that same thing again. 3:13 We still have our hardware loose, we are going to move our hitch a little bit to center it in the middle of the vehicle the best we can. You also need to make sure the holes in the heat shield will line up also. Go ahead and put the bolts into the threads and then we will tighten down the hitch which will help guide it and keep it in place. Now we will torque down the bolts as specified in the instructions. We need to trim down the heat shield a little bit, basically we are going to cut here to this seam right here and then over and around. Then use some tin snips to cut that out, which should give us plenty of room to reinstall the heat shield. Lets go ahead and reinstall the heat shield. Make sure it fits over the hanger, you can see the cut out gives us room for the nut and bolt right there. Then we will go ahead and snug those down. Now, getting to the end of it, lets go ahead and reinstall our exhaust system. 4:26 We have our vehicle off the lift, now lets give you a couple measurements that will help you in choosing your accessories for your hitch. First off, from the top of the receiver tube to the ground is approximately 14-1/2 inches. From the center of the hitch pin hole, to the outer edge of the bumper is approximately 7 inches. There you have it for part number 87568 from Hidden Hitch.