3.5mm mini jack prep and soldering. Crash course in mini jack wiring and soldering. A basic recabling mod.
First thing first, choose a cable and 3.5mm TRS mini jack to replace the standard one. A quick lesson on TRS jack or some call it mini stereo plug. This plug has 3 section or conductor, divided by the 2 black insulating rings. On a headphone stereo mini jack the Tip/Left channel is for left ear and Ring/Right or the middle contact is for the right ear and Ground/Sleeve or the last contact is for ground.
The easiest way to remember which is left, right and ground is by holding the jack horizontally in front of you using your right hand, with the pointed tip pointing to your left. The Tip ( pointed end ) is Left channel since it pointing to your left, sometimes known as negative ( - ) and represented by red wire, the section next to the tip in between the two insulating black ring is the Ring or Right, sometimes known as positive ( + ) and the conductor with the most contact area is the sleeve or ground. Generally the transducer is like a speaker, it works with one wire supplying the audio signal and another for ground. Both the Left and Right channel in a headphone share the same conductor/sleeve on the mini jack for ground.
Expose the copper strands on both white ground wire and twist them together, this end will be soldered to the ground contact on the mini jack. I don't use a wire stripper because i don't want to loose any copper strand, people usually talk about how good a wire is by the number of copper strands it has and they loose half of the number of strands when stripping the insulation.
Melting and pulling of the insulator is a sure way of minimizing loss of strands. At this point it doesn't matter which of the 2 blue wires is left or right. I will show you how to tell them apart later. Right now just strip them and prepare them for soldering.
Strip and expose all wire ends, Give then a twist to prepare them for tinning. Tinning helps the wire ends stick during soldering. Wires soak up molten tin in contact, saturating them with tin makes it easier during soldering minimizing contact time. Don't forget to tin the 3 contact on the TRS jack.
Twist 2 of the white wire on the TRS end together this will be the ground.
Unscrew the TRS jack and you will see 3 conductor, the longest contact with the crimp cable retainer is the where the 2 white ground cable will be solder, this is ground conductor, the smallest or shortest conductor is the Tip/Left and the one i have not mention about is the Sleeve/Right.
At this point the cable is ready to be solder to the transducer, use a sucker to remove excess tin on the 2 contacts on the transducer. At this point the recabling is done for those who choose to do this mod.
Use a multimeter to check if there are any loose or poor contact, if u don't have a multimeter use a battery and flash light bulb as a tester.
Plug the finished wire to a music source and check if everything is working properly. This completes the wiring. My next video will be on improving the looks of the headphone.
I plan to solder a female phono to the transducer.
IF THE VIDEO IS TO DARK ADJUST THE COLOR/CONTRAS/ BRIGHTNESS SETTING OF YOUR MONITOR. BEST SETTING IS DEFAULT.
I'M IN THE PROCESS OF PUTTING VOICE OVER.
MANY VIDEO STILL NEED TO BE UPLOADED, TOPIC REGARDING THIS MOD IS STILL AT EDITORIAL STAGES, I WILL DO MY BEST TO UPLOAD THEM.
Visit : http://duniavideographer.blogspot.com/
Learn to use crimp tubes in this video tutorial
This video shows the Eccotemp L5 water heater combined with the Flojet LF122202A Marine Automatic Demand Water Pump in action.
This is a quick test that we did to be able to show on video what it looks like when the Eccotemp L5 and the Flojet LF122202A are hooked up together.
A demand water pump is normally used in small boats and RVs to provide water pressure to the sink, toilet, etc. but a lot of people have discovered the usefulness of using these water pumps with the Eccotemp L5 to provide excellent water pressure when a garden faucet is not available so we decided to offer both products for sale at our store CampingShowerWorld.com to save you the trouble of finding a water pump that works well with the Eccotemp L5.
Why is the Flojet LF122202A perfect for the Eccotemp L5?
- The Eccotemp L5's ideal water pressure is between 20-80 PSI and the Flojet LF122202A is rated at 35 PSI which fits perfectly. It pumps water fast enough for good water pressure but not too fast as to not waste too much water in case you've got a limited supply.
- It measures less than 6'1/2" and weighs only 1.3 lbs so it's not cumbersome.
- Built-in pressure switch starts and stops the pump automatically when soliciting water(Turning on shower head)
- Able to run dry for an extended period of time so no risk of damaging the pump when you run out of water at the source.
- Includes built-in thermal protector
Where can you use it?
The Eccotemp normally uses a garden faucet which provides the water pressure needed for a shower or washing dishes which limits its portability to your backyard. Equipped with the Flojet water pump, it can be taken anywhere where water is available such as water that you're carrying with you, from a bucket, a lake, a stream, you name it.
Note that if you pump water from a water source that has little pebbles, for example, make sure to use an in-line water filter to prevent debris damage to the pump.
Extra parts used: (Not included with Eccotemp L5 and Flojet water pump)
- 1/2" PEX X 1/2" FPT coupling(brass crimp fitting)
- Stainless steel hose connector clamp 7/32" O.D. to 5/8" O.D.
- 12 AWG electrical wire
- Battery testing clips
- 7/16" X 5/16" vinyl tubing
- Electrical tape
How we set it up using the extra parts:
1- Screwed on brass coupling to Eccotemp L5 water inlet.
2- Connected a 3' vinyl tube from brass coupling used in step 1 to the pump water outlet.
3- Tightened 3' vinyl tube to brass coupling using Hose Connector Clamp to make sure it's nice and tight to prevent leaks.
4- Connected an 8' vinyl tube to the pump water inlet. The other end of the tube is submerged in the bucket of water.
5- Connected two 12 AWG wires of 10' each from the water pump's positive and ground wires to two 50 amps battery clips connected to the battery.(Use electrical tape to connect and cover exposed copper wires)
All these extra parts can easily be found in any hardware store for under 25$.
How to crimp a simgle piece BNC plug for CCTV camera instalations. most BNC plug are 3 piece and can often be very unrelaible and time consuming to prepare. In this file we are using model# coax8 whish is a combo cable of RG59BU and figure 8 for power
In the latest pics from the sets, we spot Katrina Kaif, the film’s leading lady performing a stunt on a metal structure with footholds and crimps. Here are more from the sets of Dhoom 3
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Larry Potterfield, Founder and CEO of MidwayUSA, demonstrates his process of loading vintage 10 gauge ammunition using a MEC Sizemaster shotshell press. From sizing to crimping, each stage of this fascinating reloading process is covered. MidwayUSA has just about everything for reloading rifle, handgun, and shotgun.
Coax & RJ-45 CAT5 Connection
Having trouble installing the wiring in your home? Channel Vision provides all the information, instructions and hardware for wiring all the applications such as voice, broadband, cable TV and security systems at your location which include coax and RJ-45 CAT5 connections. We also supply wires, connectors, wall sockets and detailed instructions on labeling the wires, cutting them to the right size, stripping them and then crimping or punching them into connectors the correct way.
Coax & RJ-45 CAT5 Connection
To know more details call us today at 714- 424-6500 or visit our website at
My variation on a cutting routine. No cards are crimped or marked.
Netflix is pretty awesome, although it has totally put a crimp in my social life since I just stay at home and watch movies all night. I'm a dork, but who cares? :)
How to crimp a cat5e network cable
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on this 2007 Lexus RX350 we are going to be installing the 4-pole harness part number 18002. The Lexus that we are going to show you today has a unique situation to it. On our website we indicate the wiring for the Lexus is going to be modulite part number 119176. This particular Lexus does have a factory installed tow package that we are going to be able to tap into so we are going to show you how to locate that. The port is located in the rear cargo area of the vehicle underneath the flooring over on the driver side. We are going to need to remove most of this interior section. There is a particular order of operations that we need to abide by to get all of the components out. 00:38
We are going to start by removing the forward most cargo door. We need to pull back the facing at the front section first. There are push rivets that are holding that in place so just pull it up. We need to unscrew the hinges that are holding the flooring into place. There is one screw per side for these hinges. We next remove the forward most cargo storage area. There are two push rivets holding this into position. One on the driver side and one on the passenger side. We are going to be using a rivet removal tool. We need to slide it underneath and just pry it up. 01:11
Next we are going to remove the front storage compartment. To access it we need to release the two coverings and there are buttons at the rear threshold to do that. Again, we have got two push rivets holding it in place. One on the driver side and one on the passenger side. Next we will remove the driver side floor covering and there are actually four bolts holding it into position, two here at the rear side and two at the forward side. Next we will remove the rear threshold piece. There are two push pins that are holding this into position. One on the driver and one on the passenger side. When removing the threshold piece you need to watch the releases for the cargo buttons. Make sure you clear the releases for the cargo doors. When you get the threshold piece to release you need to press these in. Finally we want to remove the driver side storage compartment. We have got two fasteners holding it in position. One push pin here and one here at the inside of the cargo area. 02:22
With all of those components removed, if we look at the main wiring harness feeding the tail light assembly on the driver side, there is a port located right here and that is our tow package port that we are going to be tapping into. Unfortunately this time the manufacturers do not offer an after market plug-in for this port. So what we are going to do is cut this end off and we are going to wire our wiring harness directly into it. Before cutting the end off I am going to remove the fuses activating our tow package so that we do not shorten anything when we cut the wires. You can locate this fuse underneath the hood in our accessory fuse box. If you remove the lid and look at the top side, it is labeled towing 30 amp fuse. We will put that back in when we are finished wiring in our 4-pole. Then back at the port we will cut the wires. The 4-pole harness comes with scotch locks to make our connections with. However I am going to use some standard butt connectors. We tested previously to find out which wires carry which function. The green is our right turn, right brake signal. Yellow is our left turn, left brake signal. The blue wire is our running light lead and the white is the ground. It is pretty similar to the wires that we have got on our 4-pole harness. The white is our ground, the yellow is our left turn, left brake. Green right turn, right brake, and the brown is our running light lead. 03:52
We want to strip back some of the jacketing on each one of the wires. With our wiring stripped back we just want to apply the butt connector. We will the wire into one end and then we will crimp that down. Take the adjoining wire and slide it in and crimp it down as well. Then we just want to tape up those connections. Then for storage of the 4-pole we have two options. We recommend that you leave it inside the vehicle. Store it in the storage compartment over here and then just pull it out the rear cargo door whenever you want to use it. However if you do need it underneath the vehicle permanently there is a grommet there right below the connector. You can just put a splice in that, route the 4-pole through there and then you can leave it underneath the vehicle permanently. From there we just want to put our fuse back into position and reinstall our flooring and then our installation will be complete. With the interior reinstalled we will show you how you can store your 4-pole. When you want to use it again just pull it out the rear door and you can close the door on it. You do not have to worry about it being pinched. The weather stripping at the rear will prevent that from happening. You can see I can still move it side to side freely. With that, that will conclude the installation of 4-pole part number 18002 on a 2007 Lexus RX350.
The Enterprise of Brockton, Mass.
'Insane' violence shakes city
By Maria Papadopoulos
ENTERPRISE STAFF WRITER
BROCKTON — Lisa Hanlon heard six gunshots near the James Edgar Playground on Winthrop Street around dinnertime Wednesday and thought they were firecrackers.
Moments later, after loud screams echoed outside, she would join several neighbors trying to stop the bleeding on an 18-year-old male shot multiple times and lying on a porch at 141 Winthrop St., across the street from the playground.
"The chest was the one (wound) that was bleeding the most," said Hanlon, 39, a health care worker. "I just told them to keep talking to him, because he was fading in and out of consciousness, and to hold pressure to where the gun wounds were."
The 18-year-old, whose name was not released Wednesday night, was in critical condition and undergoing surgery Wednesday night at a local hospital following the 6:07 p.m. shooting, police said. He was shot multiple times in the leg and chest area, witnesses said.
A 7-year-old boy, whose name was also not released Wednesday night, suffered non-life-threatening injuries near his eye, police said.
"He might have caught a piece of bullet fragment," said Lt. Tom LaFratta.
Wednesday's brazen daytime shooting happened less that five days after a 17-year-old was shot dead in Brockton.
Jose Gurley, 17, was gunned down early Saturday morning at Roosevelt Heights, a city-owned housing complex on Brockton's North Side. He was the third teen to be shot dead in Brockton in the past two months. No arrests have been made in that shooting, police said.
On Winthrop Street, witnesses said a car was driving by when they heard gunshots. Police recovered a handgun in bushes on nearby West Harvard Street shortly after the shooting.
No suspects had been identified by 11 p.m. Wednesday.
City residents came out of their homes to see a state police helicopter hovering over West Elm Street and Belmont Avenue shortly after the shooting looking for the suspect or suspects.
Dozens of youths and parents filled Winthrop Street near the crime scene Wednesday as state and Brockton police recovered evidence behind yellow police tape. A boys' bicycle was among evidence taken from the scene. Five shell casings were found, police said.
"It sickens me that these kids are shooting each other," said Ward 2 City Councilor Michael Brady, in whose ward the shooting happened, at the scene.
"What's going on in Brockton is just insane," Hanlon said. "There are enough shootings right now that's going on. It's insane."
Brockton Police Chief William Conlon, who responded to Wednesday's crime scene, said gun violence in the city "is an ongoing problem."
"There's just far too many guns out there, too easily accessible," Conlon said. "We're doing all that we can to try to put a crimp in that."
He said police are working with several agencies, including the state police, to help curb gun violence.
"Those are the types of issues that we're up against every day," said Conlon, who urged more witnesses to come forward to help solve cases.
"People have to start telling us some things," Conlon said. "Protect your family members. Don't let them be carrying guns because they're going to be used against them or they'll be using them on somebody else's family that then retaliates."
"It's just an endless cycle of violence if somebody doesn't say 'Enough is enough' and put a stop to it," Conlon said.
The historic James Edgar Playground on the city's West Side was where boxing champion Rocky Marciano once played baseball. Marciano grew up on Dover Street, across from the playground and Winthrop Street.
Casimiro Gomes, a neighborhood resident, came home from work Wednesday to find Winthrop Street flooded with state and Brockton police.
"It makes me cry every day," said Gomes, a 51-year-old father of four, of the recent shootings involving city youth. "I pray to God to help us. There's too much pain."
Stari Girl Jewelry presents "The Crimp Tool-Part One" to show you how easy it is to make beautiful jewelry. The complete "Beginner Jewelry Making" DVD is available at www.starigirljewelry.com
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on this 2004 Volvo XC90, we will be installing the modulite wiring harness kit part number 119190KIT. We are inside the cargo region of the vehicle here. We are going to need to go ahead and dissect most of the rear to gain access to wiring points that we are going to be attaching to. The actual connection points are located behind the interior panels here. To gain access to those, we are going to need to start by removing the cargo floor here and release the straps on each side. Then we can just take the handle here in the center and pull that up. If you want to just set that off to the side for the time being. Next I am going to remove the corner cover here. Then next we want to remove this interior panel here. 00:40
With the access panel removed, you can see there are two allen type screws that are holding the tail light assembly onto the vehicle. You have got one here and one right here. To remove them I am just going to take a pair of vice scripts, them over and I am just going to unscrew it like a normal screw. And with those two removed, we can come back out to the outside of the vehicle and pull the tail light assembly off. As you can see we have got multiple wires feeding the tail light assembly, so we are going to need to test those to figure out which wires we are looking to tap in to. I am going to start by actually taking a self tapping screw and running it to the back side into the metal of the back side of the tail light housing here for our ground wire.01:25.
So, first I am going to test for the left turn function, and it appears to be the green wire here. Next, we are going to test for the running light wire that appears to be the white wire. And then lastly, we will test for the brake wire, and that looks to be our yellow wire here. And those are the three connections we are going to need to make here on the drivers side. You will note that the modulite box itself is fairly large. Now there is not a decent place to mount it here on the outside of tail light assembly, so what I am going to do is go ahead and take these wires here and feed them through this grommet from the inside of the vehicle out, and we will make our connections here. So taking the scotch locks provided with the installation kit, we want to go ahead and make our connections to those wires there. The brown here on the harness, switches our running light feed, will connect to the white wire. Our yellow wire is our left turn, which was the green on the vehicle. And then the red wire, brake light, connects to the yellow wire on the vehicle. We previously screwed our ground stud into the back of the tail light assembly, so what I want to do next is take the white wire from the harness, which is our ground wire, strip back a little bit of the jacketing, and take our ring terminal that is provided with our kit, slide that on there, and we just want to crimp that on there. 2:43
With those components hooked up, we can go ahead and put our grommet back in, reinstall our drivers side assembly. We are back inside the vehicle here and you can see our modulite box is kind of hanging freely from where we made our connections through the tail light. There is double sided tape on the back of the modulite box that we can use to adhere it to the inside of the vehicle. Or you can see on the sides here we have got some holes that we can use some self tapping screws to mount to the metal here. Considering its position I am going to go ahead and do that. With the modulite box mounted, we can go ahead and feed our green wire across underneath here and over to the passenger side tail light assembly where we are going to be hooking it up. We can also take the 4-pole as well and route it through that same opening. And then at this time we can also connect our larger lead black wire to the black lead on the modulite box itself. Again we can route it through the same opening that we routed the other two wires through and it is going to be connected directly to the battery. You may notice when routing your green wire across that the lead is not quite long enough for you. If that is the case, you may have to take an extra piece of green wire, like I am going to do here, and just extend it. 3:50
And with our green routed out behind the tail light assembly, we just want to go ahead and connect it to the right turn wire which, again, on this side is the green wire. Okay, we can reinstall the passenger side tail light now. Go back to the center and attach it to the battery. To gain easier access to our battery here, we want to go ahead and remove this protective shroud. There are three screws holding it on. With the battery exposed, we can go ahead and pick one of the terminals here to connect our black wire to. I am going to use the accessory one over here to the side. We just simply want to remove the nut from the top. Then we want to take our fuse holder and we are going to cut it in half. The one side we are going to connect the ring terminal to and that is going to go directly to the battery. The other end we are going to connect the butt connector and it is going to attach to our black lead here. For this larger modulite wiring harness we are going to be using the 15 amp fuse that is provided with the modulite itself. Then we just want to take the wire ties that are provided with our installation kit and go ahead and zip tie up any of the access wire that we may have. Next we are going to put the cover back on the battery then we can go ahead and start reinstalling the interior of the vehicle. Again we are going to leave the 4-pole in the center compartment for the time being and I can show you how we can go ahead and pull that out when we want to use it. With the vehicle reinstalled again, you can see our 4-pole here. When you want to use the 4-pole, you can simply pull it out the rear hatch of the vehicle. The weather stripping here on the back side will prevent the wire from being pinched. And with that, that will conclude the installation of modulite wiring harness part number 119190KIT.
How to crimp cat5e network cable
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on this 2005 Dodge Durango we will be installing wiring harness part number 118390. Okay we are at the rear of the vehicle, we are going to go ahead and locate the ports that we are going to be plugging our wiring harness into. These ports are located directly behind the tail lights, both on the drivers and passenger side. Okay the first thing we need to do is remove these tail lights to gain access to these ports. :19
To remove the tail lights we simply need to remove the two interior push pins here on the tail lights. There are also two push pins here on the inside of the tail light, so once you have the two removed from the inside you just want to simply rock it back and forth until those release. You can also see our port here that we are going to be plugging our wiring harness into. We need to separate it from the back of the tail light. To do so, we just want to take the red clip here and slide it over, then push the release here at the top. That will allow us to separate the two. :55
We can go ahead and start installing our harness. Over here on the drivers side we are going to be installing the plug that has the brown, yellow, and red wires on it. We are simply going to plug one side into the vehicle into the harness and the other side into the back of the tail light. The other two wires that we have here are the plug ins for the passenger side tail light. And then obviously, this is our 4-pole that is going to connect to the trailer. You can take both of these and route them through the same opening. We are obviously going to take the connector for the passenger side and route it all the way across to make our connection. The 4-pole we are going to take to the middle of the vehicle and tie it off at our trailer hitch. You can also see here we have a red wire that is open ended, this will connect to the black wire that came with our installation kit, the long black lead. We are going to take that and it down the opening between the vehicle and bumper and route it up the drivers side frame rail where we are going to connect to a power source under the hood. When connecting the red and black wires together we just want to strip back a little bit of the jacketing here off of each wire. Take the butt connector which is provided with our wiring kit, slide our wire into there and take a set of crimpers and crimp that down. Then we will the other end into the butt connector and crimp that down as well. Might want to take some electrical tape and wrap that up. 2:18
Then we will go ahead and feed the wire in between the opening. Then next we are going to take our modulite box here, as you can see on the back side it has double sided tape, we want to take it and adhere it to the back of the tail light housing. With those items completed we can go ahead and put our drivers side tail light back on. We can go ahead and remove the passenger side tail light as well and we will go underneath the vehicle and route our wires across. Underneath the vehicle you can see the three sets of wires that we ped down between the bumper and the body. Again, the black wire is going to be going up the drivers side frame rail to the battery, so we can hold off on that wire for the time being. The four pole we are just going to route to the center, I am going to tie it off on my trailer hitch. You can see we have some fascia support straps here throughout the back side to route the wiring behind to keep them out of the way and weather safe. And we will repeat the procedure that used on the drivers side for connecting the harness into the tail light. Now we will go back underneath the vehicle and route the black wire up to the battery. When routing your wire up to the battery you want to make sure you avoid any possible pinch points or hot spots that could damage the wire. And what I have already done is route a piece of fish wire from under the hood of the vehicle down here towards the frame so I can tie my wire to it and pull it into place. 4:19
We are up underneath the hood now and you can see we have our wire routed from underneath the vehicle. At this point we need to find a power source to hook our hot lead to. We can either route it across the rear threshold here over to the positive side of the battery, or in this instance we can go ahead and use the power leads that are feeding our fuse box here to tap into, right here. So what you I want to do is remove one of the nuts off the two studs here. We are going to next take our fuse holder and cut it in half. So again, we just want to strip off some of the jacketing off of both ends. The one end we are going to put a butt connector on and connect it to the black wire that we routed up from the back of the vehicle. The other end we are going to connect a ring terminal to the post here. What I am going to do is connect to the power source first, that will help us determine how much of the black wire we actually need. You can see I have quiet a bit of extra wire, so we can cut it down to the appropriate length that we need. With those connections made there we can go ahead and take some electrical tape and tape that connection up as well. You want to make sure you the 10 amp fuse here in the fuse holder. And with all of our loose wires secured and out of harms way our installation is complete. This will conclude the installation of wiring harness part number 118390 on a 2005 Dodge Durango.