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another video up, and more to come once I start to compile them. All the following tests were done with the same cell setup, 2 cells at 36 plates 6"x6", 3/8 hose ran from cell to res, from res to dryer #1, to dryer #2 at engine, and only the last 2" of tube was reduced to 1/4 tubing, the torch was using a .025 mig tip.
1st test setup, removed all metering jets from gasoline carb, routed hho into normal gasoline input, routed crank case vent to manifold vacuum. covered carb intake. The carb intake was allowing hho to escape, and too much air in which leaned out the hho mix. The amount of injected hho could only handle the amount of air coming in from the crank case. If I had more hho I would have had to open the carb up at higher rpm. Running hho through the carb worked but not great, it was too leaky and too restrictive to flow much.
PROBLEMS: hho back filled the crank case, which would be fine if you allows turn the engine spark off and purged the system before starting it. I didn't once and the hho in crank case was set off from a lean condition. Luckily I was wearing my body armor otherwise I would have a pretty good mark on my side. The oil filler cap was shot out deflecting off my side, and went 60' across the street.
RECOMMENDATIONS: don't try this, a crank vent is good, but a pcv valve should be used, and a sealed carb with a crank case connection should not be used.
2ND test setup,
Hho injected into intake manifold, crank case open air vented, synopsis: undecided from this test, ssc's test was very successful though.
Problems: manifold vacuum collapsed hho tube
Recommendations, this test still needs to be done successfully to collaborate with ssc, but a rigid tube needs to be used to keep from vacuum collapsing it.
3RD test setup,
hho injeccted with torch, torch was placed in a 2' long 3/4" dia. copper tube to keep torch flame from hitting carb in event of backfiretube was pushed into carb as sealed as possible, fair seal 95%. Crank case vented to intake manifold.Engine didn't run.
Problems, it seems that the long tube didn't draft enough hho into the engine.
Recommendations, not to use this method.
4TH test setup
hho injected into carb with torch, crank case vented intake intake manifold. The specific direction the torch was placed made a large difference, if I directed the torch to the tiny crack of the throttle butterfly, the engine ran fine, if the torch was directed any other place(ie to center of butterfly, to axle point of butterfly, etc.) it did not run well if at all. with this setup the engine ran for approx. 3-3.5 hrs, from 13amp down to 9.5amps at 115v ac (retified to dc approx. dc volts 146) the only reason the engine stopped running is I ran out of water in the cell to keep the production up. The cell was about 160* and it produced a huge amount of steam, that steam was a good percentage of the total volume coming from the cell (maybe up to 1/3) the temp of the hho expanded the gas into a much less dense version of itself, which means I was not injecting very much pure hho. After a few hours the tubing condensed the steam into water in the tubing, and was passing liquid water into the engine, this did not seem to effect the engine at the amounts that was going into it, ie it did not stumble when water went in. There was a puddle below the carb at about 2-2.5 hrs into the test. exhaust was cool, so much so I could put my finger into the tail pipe without discomfort. Engine temp is on videos that are soon to be posted. Rpm is unknown right now, but approx. from a fair tuned ear, 1200 at 13 amps, down to very low maybe 400 at 9.5 amps, very very very low idle is possible with hho. Inspected spark plug, it was dry and very clean, a nice golden color to it. no real evidence of carbon.
Problems, possiblity of torching your carb if a backfire ignites the torch, I did it last week almost cut the choke butterfly in half before I got to it (3-4 seconds)
Recommendations, for observed testing this is a good method for running engines, its simple and it works very well. with no mods to engine needed.
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Before posting questions about Honda idle problems please read this: *******www.ericthecarguy****/forum/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/41476-solving-honda-idle-issues-hunting-idle
The viewers have chosen and this weeks video will be about solving Honda idle problems. I'm really not surprised as I get a lot of questions and requests about this very subject. Here are the links I promised in the video that will help you address specific issues mentioned in the video.
How To Bleed a Cooling System
How to Check for Vacuum Leaks
Reading Check Engine Light Codes
Diagnosing an Overheat
Hopefully when your done checking all that stuff out you will have solved your Honda's idle problem, if not leave a comment or send me a message and I'll see what I can do just make sure you have tried all the stuff in the videos first as that saves me from typing so much.
I also want to add my "Idle Speech" into the mix here: *******www.ericthecarguy****/forum/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/41475-solving-honda-idle-issues-rough-idle
There are a lot of things that can contribute to an idle issue, in fact in the end it may still be there to some degree because of the nature of that engine however here are some things to start with.
First start with a good tune up, use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, don't change the wires if they are OE, if they aren't OE you might consider NGK wires as they are very good and less expensive then OE. A quality cap and rotor should be good. A new air filter also helps.
Don't change the PCV valve, if you see an aftermarket PCV valve in there put a Honda in, believe it or not I've seen idle issues caused by aftermarket PCV valves, the OE's last just about forever so you can easily justify the expense.
Next a good valve adjustment, this goes a long way to smooth out the idle if done correctly, mess it up and things can get a lot worse though.
While you have the valve cover off check the timing belt tension, if you feel a lot of slack this can cause the cam to 'chunk' as it spins causing a rough idle. If you think the belt has been on there for some time then you might consider changing it and resetting the tension properly, if it's not ready for replacement you can reset the tension to take up the slack.
DO NOT adjust the idle screw under any circumstances, it is set at the factory and that is the reason it was sealed in the first place. If you find that the seal has been broken and you have a low idle and you have done all of the above then you might turn the screw out a little to see if that helps the idle but only enough to try and bring it back to where it was before it was adjusted in the first place.
Last clean the screen in the Idle Air Control valve, this can get clogged up with carbon over time and cause the flow through it to be restricted which can cause idle issues.
If you still have a 'rough' idle after all of this THEN look to the engine mounts as you want to be sure the engine is running correctly before you go for those as the one in the back is a real pain to replace.
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Akrapovic Evo2 Full Exhaust System,PCV,BMC Filter and Auto tune
This is with the M4 carbon fiber shorty exhaust slip-on AKA Streetslayer for the 1000. It eliminates the cat. In addition to the modifications are a PCV and Autotuner. Also note the engine was already warm prior to revving the engine and that free revving your engine can cause a valve float. If you have any questions feel free to ask!
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Mods are PCV, Full Termingnoni exhaust.
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