The all-new 2011 Ford Super Duty gives you power when you need it
Check out the new turbocharger inside the 6.7L Power Stroke® V8 Turbo Diesel. It sits right in the middle of the engine, next to the exhaust manifold. That proximity means faster air displacement, more power and reduced turbo lag. Plus, this new turbocharger uses a light, single-shaft design, dual-sided compressor wheel and articulating vanes that vary the flow of air based on the accelerator, so you get all that power and torque right when you need it.
Durability is toughness and toughness is the all-new powertrain on the all-new 2011 Ford Super Duty.
Durability and toughness starts with the all-new 6.7L Power Stroke V8 Turbo Diesel engine. Designed to do at least 250,000 miles, this engine has been reinforced with a compacted graphite iron cylinder block, six head bolts per cylinder to improve sealing and good structural integrity over the life of the engine and a dual water cooler in the cylinder head to make the cylinder stronger and more reliable.
With this Super Duty, the odometer might wear out before the truck.
Anchored by an all-new 6.7L Power Stroke V8 Turbo Diesel engine and new TorqShift® six-speed automatic transmission, the 2011 Super Duty can tackle any job you need. And put in a little overtime. Ford engineers built this new engine from scratch to make sure it was tough enough and capable enough to work when you need it to work – which is all the time.
After it was built, they tested it beyond the level that most Super Duty owners will ever use it. They took it to the desert and pushed it hard – 100 degrees, pulling a 10,000 lb. trailer up a 6% grade, 75 mph – and it didn’t break a sweat. Part of that has to do with available features like Trailer Sway Control, Hill Descent Control, Hill Ascent Assist and the kind of towing and payload that the world has come to expect from a Super Duty.
Built Ford Tough. When it’s done our way, it’s done right.
It fuels our cars and heats our homes, but getting it out of the ground requires the toughest men and machines. We visit oil and gas fields to see why the Ford Super Duty is the overwhelming choice of guys who literally dig deeper than just about anyone else.<br />
Learn more at: *******www.ford****/trucks/superduty/weownwork/<br><br />
Buzzing saws, falling trees and a work floor that's steep, slick and rugged. Loggers have a dangerous job. They need a truck that's as tough as they are. See why the Ford Super Duty stands high above the rest in the forestry business.<br><br />
Go to MYRIDE.COM for more car videos. 2008 Ford F250 review.
Anchored by a new Ford-built-from-scratch 6.7L Power Stroke® V8 Turbo Diesel, this Super Duty is more powerful, more fuel-efficient and tougher than ever before. To prove it, Mike Rowe takes you behind the scenes.
Watch as the Super Duty turns into a mobile generator by tapping into the turning power of the transmission to run equipment like snowplows, salt spreaders and powerful work lights.
The Super Duty-exclusive Live Drive PTO is designed and factory built by Ford to utilize both mechanical and hydraulic power. Like every other part of this truck, the 2011 Super Duty is quality crafted and tough as nails so you can get the job done.
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on this 2005 Ford F-350 Super Duty we are going to install part number 30847-30073 from Reese. There are two ways to get the rails underneath the bed of the truck. What we are going to do is in this case we are going to actually loosen the bed bolts up and pushing that up we will have access. If you can not get the bolts loose then the next best thing you can do is put two cuts into the sheet metal underneath the bed and pry it up out of the way so you can slide the rails in. If we were to cut the bed what we would do is just make a notch here and a notch here and then we just take some vise- grips or some pliers and just pull the sheet metal up and out of our way. Then we can slide the cross member in. Okay we put some spacers between the frame and the bed of the truck just to give us a little extra working room. 00:47
One thing you might want to do before you install the rails is take your tap bolt and actually run it through the threads once or twice because what happens is that inside the threads it gets paint in there and what you may want to do is just go ahead and save yourself some grief later and run the bolt through now just to clean it out. All right when we install the rails just make sure that you have the oval pointing up so the puck can go in from the top side down. Okay we have got our first rail in and you need to push it forward. There is a little breather tube here that we have got to take down and out of the way and we will just work it forward. Okay and I will go ahead and do the second one but it is going to stay pretty much in the same place. 01:33
All right we can go ahead and install our side brackets now. We are going to bolt those right to the cross members. We are going to line up with this hole here. Basically what happens is with the instructions is that this plate is going to actually butt up against the side of this hat channel right here. So what we can do pretty much right now is go ahead and lower the bed of our truck and then secure our bracket back to the hat channel. At this point we can go ahead and snug up the bolts too. We will go ahead and repeat the same process back over on the driver side. At this point we can go ahead and re-tighten the bed bolts. Okay next we will go ahead and install our hardware in the hole going towards the back of the vehicle. We are just going to go ahead and install our bolt and flat washer and on the back side we will install the lock washer, block, and nut. What we will do next is go ahead and snug it down that way we can use the hitch bracket as a temp plate and will not move around while we drill out our forward holes. Then we will follow up with our next sized bit as stated in the instructions. Now that we have got our hole drilled out on the passenger side here, on most applications you will just simply put in another nut and bolt and block assembly on there but in this case the shock mount is right behind here. You will have to use a special neuro bolt that comes with the kit. What we are going to do is fish wire it from the back side out this way. 03:15
The kit does come with a fish wire tool. Just push it through and kind of out the back and down and out to the side. We will thread our bolt in and maneuver it back into position and pull it through. We will leave that in there for now and we will get the rest of our hardware and put that into place. Put on our flat washer, lock washer, and then the nut. When we tighten this down this bolt will actually draw itself into the frame of the vehicle. The thread should be just about at the end of the nut. We will go ahead back to the other side on the driver side it will actually be just a conventional lock and lock washer, washer, plate, and nut. The last hole, what we are going to do is going to be the same as the first two we did. Going back to the driver side, put our flat washer and bolt through and then our plate, lock washer, and the nut. The next step is to go ahead and lock our holes in the bed so we can drill down to make room for the puck. We are going to do that with the marking bolt that is supplied with the kit. We will just run it up until we make a mark in the bed. When you get it running up into place take a moment to make sure you can see the mark on the top side and then move on to the next one. All right we have got our holes marked. What we are going to next is go ahead and loosen these bolts here, move the cross bars out of the way so we have room to drill right through the bed. Move those out of the way as needed for clearance. 05:05
Here is our mark we made in the bed. We actually made it a little bigger than normal just to see it easier and basically what you want to do is just take a simple punch and just kind of round out the hole a little bit just to make sure it is straight and then we can go ahead and use that to start our pilot hole. Now we will do the same thing with the rest of the holes. All right we can go ahead put our cross members and put those back into place. All right at this point we can go ahead and start installing the pucks. Basically what is going to happen is you are going to take the puck, put the beauty ring around it, just go ahead and it into place, and then take your button head bolt and just go ahead and get it started. It helps to get the washer in there first and then start the bolt. You can go ahead and tighten it down and then just go ahead and torque it down as specified in the instructions. Once you get the pucks tightened down, go ahead and get the fifth wheel out and our unit is a pre-assembled unit so what we are going to do is go ahead and give it a test fit to see how it fits. Okay sometimes on these assemblies here what happens is that this part will be off set from the puck itself. The way to fix that is there is a jam nut inside of here which the fifth wheel actually comes with a tool to fix that. Also you want to go around and tighten all of these too because the factory ones will not tighten down actually. So you want to push the pin assembly all the way through and sneak your wrench in there and then tighten it down or loosen it as you see fit. See how you can move it back and forth. You may need just that little bit of play to fit it in just right. So you are going to have to do a couple of test fits, put the fifth wheel into place, check it out and see which one binds up, loosen it up, adjust it, and put it back into place. All right when you tighten these up you want to go snug, you want to go about 1/ 4 of a turn. All right once you have the nuts tightened down, lock them into place using these three little tabs and this retaining washer here and what you want to do is flip up the tab that matches the flat side that of the nut valve. It might be the front one, it might be the rear one. Okay that one is locked into position and then just go ahead and do the same thing for the other three. All right once you have it fully adjusted the hitch should slide in, you may have a little bit of friction you may have to push in a little bit but that is good. When you are all said and done you will have a little tiny bit of movement but you should not have hardly anything at all. All right while we are up here we will go ahead and install the handle assembly. It simply slides into place, two bolts in, the lock washer and nut on the bottom, and tighten it down. Okay now we can go ahead and torque these bolts down. With that, that finishes our install of part number 30847-30073.
Not only do you need a vehicle that can operate smoothly and efficiently on the highway, but you need a vehicle that is tough and you can get off the road with. Its not unusual to be driving down a road with two to three feet of snow on it; they dont always put drilling rigs and job sites in nice places. Whether going up hills, taking tight turns, or going through a ravine, the Ford Super Duty has plenty of power and torque for off road situations.
If you want something done right, you have to do it yourself. The engineers at Ford take this lesson to heart and have redesigned the all-new 2011 Ford Super Duty from the ground up, innovating along the way to build the most durable and advanced truck possible.
Leading the way is the powerful and durable all-new 6.7L Power Stroke V8 Turbo Diesel. Supporting that is a body that went through temperature and environmental tests to show this truck can perform no matter what. In all, after 2 million-plus miles of testing, Ford knows Super Duty has it where it counts in horsepower, torque, towing, hauling, durability, quietness and fuel-efficiency.
The Ford testing facility is where some of Mother Nature’s meanest conditions are replicated. So that’s where the all-new 2011 Super Duty was subjected to the kinds of conditions people will take the truck – Alaskan oil fields, Death Valley and everywhere in between. It’s tested here so you know it can take any extreme weather.
One test is the Deep Thermal Shock. It puts the truck through a temperature swing of 250 degrees in about one minute. That’s an extreme condition. But that’s what Super Duty is made to handle.
By thinking from the driver’s perspective, Ford engineered this new Super Duty to do things real people need it to do. Like having a quiet — yet durable and powerful — new diesel so you don’t have to turn off the engine to place your order at the drive-thru. Or like testing it on city, rural and highway routes to evaluate, simulate and perfect the different types of usage this truck will go through everyday.
In a truck that’s known for being big and powerful, it’s nice to know that Ford engineers didn’t forget about some of the little things.
ReadyLift's President Scott Poncher presents a unique product at the 2007 SEMA show: 2.5-inch lift kit for the F-250/F-350 Ford Super duty 4X4. The ReadyLift Suspension kit gives you 5 inches of ground clearance without sacrificing the vehicles ride!
Kenny Cone at MTN VIEW FORD LINCOLN MERCURY in Chattanooga, Tennessee HAS A 2011 Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.7L Diesel 4x4 that is absolutely HARD LOADAED! CALL US AT 423-763-0385 FOR DETAILS! You can also email him at kenny_conemvford**** or come see us at *******www.yourfordguys**** and *******www.mvford****
Have your Super Duty delivered direct from the factory already prepped to mount an accessory 5th-wheel or gooseneck hitch. Easily remove the hitch units for a flat bed or swap from one hitch to the other.
• Innovative frame-mounted crossmember
• Factory- warranted
• Better placement of trailer load