Midtone - Malt
Contour - Embark
Eyeliner - Blitz n Glitz and Carbon
It takes 3 colours to really define a eye. This is how i teach it. So if you were to come and see me personally, you could be getting the same advice, regardless of eye shape, colour, etc...
The highlight colour goes on the eye lid, inner corner and lower corner as well as just under the brow. Your choice of shade is up to you. But it must be the lightest of the three shades. You have a selection of choices. Shimmer. Matte. Metallic. Its up to you. Metallic will be more dramatic than a matte highlight. If you are choosing a shimmer or metallic shade, then apply it to you eyelid as mentioned and under your brow, not over the entire eye as this can look tacky! If you are choose a matte shade you can apply it all over your entire eyelid, from lid to brow bone. When picking matte shades try not going more than 3 shades lighter than your skin tone as this can look overly harsh and really wash out the eye.
*Note. Ebony beauties will find it most flattering to be a shimmer shade as opposed to a matte one as this will add beautiful dimension to the eye and ensure no shades turn ashy.
This is the most important shade. This really really REALLY takes shape of you eye. This will open up the eye, and start the contouring part. Your midtone shade is in the same family as your skin tone but 1-3 shades darker. It is, without doubt the most boring of the three shades but the most important. Getting this step right will change your eye - you can really see this in my tutorial as i talk you through it step by step and you can see the depth and eye really take effect.
You apply your midtone shade to the crease of the eye. Starting from the inner corner of the eye by the nose, apply it in a windshield wiper motion back and forth. MAC 226 brush is best of this. Do not bring the midtone shade out beyond the edge of your eye. This can drag the eye down and look unflattering. You can also apply the midtone shade to your lower lash line from outside corner to inner, meeting your highlight shade. This step is optional but i do it because it creates a smooth flow of colours.
This is the darkest of the three shades. I'm not talking black, but its darker than the other two shades. You apply this colour from the outer eyelid and depending on your eye shape (spoken about more in eyeshadow 101 - mature eyes) up to half way across your eye. The brush you use is important here and again, depends on your eye shape. Close set eyes will want to use a small brush, hooded eyes or wide set eyes will want to use a larger brush. You will also apply the contour shade under your lower lash line about 2/3 - half away across the lower lash line. This will really make the eyes sand out.
You have a choice here. Pencil. Or powder. I prefer powder. Less hard. How you apply depends on your eye shape. Normally you would apply to your upper lash line but if you have hooded eyes you might have an issue as you don't have very much lid space showing and adding a dark colour here will look like you have a full eyelid of dark shadow so i would prefer to upper tight line the upper eyelid but colouring in the upper waterline with a eye pencil. But again, the choice is yours.
Waterproof tends to be the best option. But any that you like is fine. I like black on nearly everyone because it just makes the eyes stand out more, but brown is fine. I tend to stay away from Blue, Green, etc... because its not the most natural.