Cleaning a Mil-Spec 1911-A1 PART 2

So, I've heard both sides argued, & I'm still not sure which is better. I've heard "experts" from both sides but what it comes down to is what works for you. With 0 malfunctions I'm not jinxing myself by changing anything. I'm not sure how many rounds are through it, but I go to the range about every other week & put a box or 3 through. That's like 3-4000 rounds a year for 3 or 4 years now..like 16000 total, conservatively. The barrel though I STRESS must be cleaned of all oil & should be dry.

I thought big blocks used larger oil pans w/ more oil? Anyway, your way may be better for all I know. I'm not sure how similar engines & guns are. What I mean is with engines there is excessive heat, pressure, combustion, etc. on cylinders that have rings pressed against the walls. I'd guess that a frame to slide rail isn't as close a fit. If you see like an AR 3 thousand round test, for example, the person literally sprays oceans of lube in the bolt. To this date this 1911 has 0 jams.

Too much oil causes friction, hence dry sump oiling systems on every modern race engine. By using the slightest amount of oil possible, great gains in power are achieved, and all moving parts are able to work smoother and faster, with less resistance. Excessive amounts of oil should only be used if the parts were poorly machined and did not fit well. I respect your opinion and moreover, your experience, but still prefer to use the bare minimum amount of oil on my pistols.

i like a little of both. i keep some oiled parts dry and others wet. i try to keep parts that are directly exposed to powder residue dry and parts that are shielded from powder(for the most part) more wet.

I agree, for 10 different people are 10 different ways to clean. I personally have found wet to work best for me. My reasoning is based on this: My wet 1911 has had thousands upon thousands of flawless rounds without 1 jam & I've talked to many 1911 owners who have had many. The 1 main difference that I found: Mine is wet, theirs is dry. It's just what worked for me. I know when I pull the trigger 8 times I'll get 8 bangs. Other people have found the opposite. Whatever works for you. Thanks!

You are the first person, that I have heard prefer a "wet" gun. Both my grandfathers, my father and all of my uncles have taught me: that when lubing a firearm to run a lubed patch or q-tip over all moving parts, then run several dry over it, to get excess oil off. Also seeing you use the lube with that teflon stuff, I don't see a need to have a "wet" gun due to the nature of teflon. other wise good vid.

Well thank you. For everyone else, I do highly recommend Breakfree. Stainless is superior for rust, but there's just nothing like a nicely worn blue to me, for character. I mean World War blued and walnut weapons are still around 70 years later, so I think frequent oil really is the key. Old timers use to literally wrap the things in oiled cloth. If I'm really bored, I'll even very lightly wipe some of my .45 cases down. In my mind it makes me think it feeds and extracts better.

Thank you for the vid. I agree with you - "wet wet wet" concerning lube. I use breakfree CLP as a lube because it bonds with the metal and acts as a rust preventative. As far as "attracting dirt" what I do is wipe off the breakfree and let it all dry out in the open so there is nothing left on the surface to attract dirt. Thanks for Part 2. Sincerely, JAMES.

Nasaly voice, I'm sick, gimme a break. Anyhow some of the parts (like magazine & front/rear grip straps) I wont keep wet with oil. If it drops dirt & such will stick to it. I think thats an obvious benefit to using PTFE coating. The parts can be dried yet still be slippery because of the teflon coating that bonds. I got mine for like $3 at True Value. Whatever works for you. Experience for me says food wont stick to teflon frying pans, so rust & metal-to-metal wont stick on teflon guns.