How To Replace the First Generation 2003-2005 Mitsubishi Outlander PCV Valve & Spark Plugs
PCV valve should be replaced every 56,000 Km (35,000 Miles) or at least every 2 years. They are relatively cheap ($3-$8) so you could do it when you do a tune up. Check and shake it. It should rattle. If not, it is clogged and needs to be replaced.
I personally recommend using OEM Iridium spark plug NGK LZFR6AI.
First generation 2003-2005 Mitsubishi Outlander is equipped with iridium tipped spark plugs, which are identified by marks on the ceramic (IR). They do not require replacement as frequently as the conventional type spare plug and will last much longer (page 7-31 Outlander Owner's Manual)
How often should spark plugs be replaced?
168,000 Km (105,000 Miles) or at 84 months for iridium tipped type
96,000 Km (60,000 Miles) or at 48 months for platium tipped type
24,000 Km (15,000 Miles) or at 12 months for standard type
This is specifically indicated in the Warranty and Maintenance Manual booklet
How do I install spark plugs correctly?
another video up, and more to come once I start to compile them. All the following tests were done with the same cell setup, 2 cells at 36 plates 6"x6", 3/8 hose ran from cell to res, from res to dryer #1, to dryer #2 at engine, and only the last 2" of tube was reduced to 1/4 tubing, the torch was using a .025 mig tip.
1st test setup, removed all metering jets from gasoline carb, routed hho into normal gasoline input, routed crank case vent to manifold vacuum. covered carb intake. The carb intake was allowing hho to escape, and too much air in which leaned out the hho mix. The amount of injected hho could only handle the amount of air coming in from the crank case. If I had more hho I would have had to open the carb up at higher rpm. Running hho through the carb worked but not great, it was too leaky and too restrictive to flow much.
PROBLEMS: hho back filled the crank case, which would be fine if you allows turn the engine spark off and purged the system before starting it. I didn't once and the hho in crank case was set off from a lean condition. Luckily I was wearing my body armor otherwise I would have a pretty good mark on my side. The oil filler cap was shot out deflecting off my side, and went 60' across the street.
RECOMMENDATIONS: don't try this, a crank vent is good, but a pcv valve should be used, and a sealed carb with a crank case connection should not be used.
2ND test setup,
Hho injected into intake manifold, crank case open air vented, synopsis: undecided from this test, ssc's test was very successful though.
Problems: manifold vacuum collapsed hho tube
Recommendations, this test still needs to be done successfully to collaborate with ssc, but a rigid tube needs to be used to keep from vacuum collapsing it.
3RD test setup,
hho injeccted with torch, torch was placed in a 2' long 3/4" dia. copper tube to keep torch flame from hitting carb in event of backfiretube was pushed into carb as sealed as possible, fair seal 95%. Crank case vented to intake manifold.Engine didn't run.
Problems, it seems that the long tube didn't draft enough hho into the engine.
Recommendations, not to use this method.
4TH test setup
hho injected into carb with torch, crank case vented intake intake manifold. The specific direction the torch was placed made a large difference, if I directed the torch to the tiny crack of the throttle butterfly, the engine ran fine, if the torch was directed any other place(ie to center of butterfly, to axle point of butterfly, etc.) it did not run well if at all. with this setup the engine ran for approx. 3-3.5 hrs, from 13amp down to 9.5amps at 115v ac (retified to dc approx. dc volts 146) the only reason the engine stopped running is I ran out of water in the cell to keep the production up. The cell was about 160* and it produced a huge amount of steam, that steam was a good percentage of the total volume coming from the cell (maybe up to 1/3) the temp of the hho expanded the gas into a much less dense version of itself, which means I was not injecting very much pure hho. After a few hours the tubing condensed the steam into water in the tubing, and was passing liquid water into the engine, this did not seem to effect the engine at the amounts that was going into it, ie it did not stumble when water went in. There was a puddle below the carb at about 2-2.5 hrs into the test. exhaust was cool, so much so I could put my finger into the tail pipe without discomfort. Engine temp is on videos that are soon to be posted. Rpm is unknown right now, but approx. from a fair tuned ear, 1200 at 13 amps, down to very low maybe 400 at 9.5 amps, very very very low idle is possible with hho. Inspected spark plug, it was dry and very clean, a nice golden color to it. no real evidence of carbon.
Problems, possiblity of torching your carb if a backfire ignites the torch, I did it last week almost cut the choke butterfly in half before I got to it (3-4 seconds)
Recommendations, for observed testing this is a good method for running engines, its simple and it works very well. with no mods to engine needed.