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*******www.etrailer****/tv-wiring-install-2003-mitsubishi-montero.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today we are going to install part number 119175 from Tow Ready, and this is their Circuit Protected Converter Wire Harness. And we are going to install this on a 2003 Mitsubishi Montero Sport. To install this wire harness, we are going to have to get behind both sets of tail lights on this vehicle. We are going to take off the tail lights, get to the wiring behind them, and then we will make our hard-wire connections to the circuits themselves. We will just go ahead and take the lights off loose. The reason why we are taking the lights off is so we can find the function of each wire inside here, rather than just poking a bunch of different holes in the wire. So it saves a little bit of wear and tear on the wire. Next we will take some bolts out and loosen up the fascia so we can run our wires from below up through here, along the edge of the body work and into the tail light. Just to give you an idea of what is going on, all this assembly is going to be hidden behind the plastic here. We are going to run the fish wire from here down to the bottom. To make things a little bit nice and neat, we are going to actually cover all this up with electric tape so when it comes out exposed it will not be as obvious. All we are going to do now is just pry this back a little bit and run our fish wire through. And we will take our wire and wrap it around the leads for our converter box and pull it back up through. We will leave slack to work with for now, and then we will take up the slack as needed. First off we are going to install our ground screw, which we are going to put right into the bottom of our sheet metal here. We have got our ground screw installed. We will hook up our tester and then we will go through the functions. And we will have somebody else get in the front of the vehicle and turn on all the functions. OK, first we will go ahead and check for running lights. OK, turn them off on all right, that verifies the signal, and that looks like the green wire with the white tracer on it. So, we will go ahead and make our connections to the wire. Brown is going to be running lights on our wire harness, so we will hook up to that. We are going to use a Scotch lock to make our attachment, but you can use any form you like, but this seems to work the best. Next we will go for the left-turn circuit. All right, and that looks like that wiring is green with a blue tracer and silver dots on it. Yellow is going to be left turn on our wire harness. All right, next we will look for the brake circuit. OK, off on off that looks like an all-dark-green-color wire, so we will attach our red wire to the brake. All right, now we can go ahead and just reinstall the tail light assembly for this side. Let us go ahead and run our green wire all the way across, up behind the bumper. Go ahead and do the same thing for the other side. All right, we will go ahead and test for the right-turn circuit. OK, that looks like green with the yellow stripe and silver dots. We will just go ahead and make our connection to that. We will go ahead and start installing our tail light on the passengers side. We will go ahead and put our screws back in for the bumper fascia. All right, next we will go ahead and attach the converter box to the sheet metal right there behind it. We will clean it off first with cleaner and a paper towel. Next what we are going to do is route our 4-pole wire down out to the hitch. What we do not want, let us just go ahead and bundle up, and we will attach it to the back side of the bumper in one of the frame brackets. All that remains now is one final check of the wiring harness itself with a light tester before you try it on a trailer. And there you have it for part number 119175 from Tow Ready.
30 Oct 2010
1314
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5:55
*******www.etrailer****/tv-wiring-install-2004-volvo.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2004 Volvo XC90, we will be installing the modulite wiring harness kit part number 119190KIT. We are inside the cargo region of the vehicle here. We are going to need to go ahead and dissect most of the rear to gain access to wiring points that we are going to be attaching to. The actual connection points are located behind the interior panels here. To gain access to those, we are going to need to start by removing the cargo floor here and release the straps on each side. Then we can just take the handle here in the center and pull that up. If you want to just set that off to the side for the time being. Next I am going to remove the corner cover here. Then next we want to remove this interior panel here. 00:40 With the access panel removed, you can see there are two allen type screws that are holding the tail light assembly onto the vehicle. You have got one here and one right here. To remove them I am just going to take a pair of vice scripts, them over and I am just going to unscrew it like a normal screw. And with those two removed, we can come back out to the outside of the vehicle and pull the tail light assembly off. As you can see we have got multiple wires feeding the tail light assembly, so we are going to need to test those to figure out which wires we are looking to tap in to. I am going to start by actually taking a self tapping screw and running it to the back side into the metal of the back side of the tail light housing here for our ground wire.01:25. So, first I am going to test for the left turn function, and it appears to be the green wire here. Next, we are going to test for the running light wire that appears to be the white wire. And then lastly, we will test for the brake wire, and that looks to be our yellow wire here. And those are the three connections we are going to need to make here on the drivers side. You will note that the modulite box itself is fairly large. Now there is not a decent place to mount it here on the outside of tail light assembly, so what I am going to do is go ahead and take these wires here and feed them through this grommet from the inside of the vehicle out, and we will make our connections here. So taking the scotch locks provided with the installation kit, we want to go ahead and make our connections to those wires there. The brown here on the harness, switches our running light feed, will connect to the white wire. Our yellow wire is our left turn, which was the green on the vehicle. And then the red wire, brake light, connects to the yellow wire on the vehicle. We previously screwed our ground stud into the back of the tail light assembly, so what I want to do next is take the white wire from the harness, which is our ground wire, strip back a little bit of the jacketing, and take our ring terminal that is provided with our kit, slide that on there, and we just want to crimp that on there. 2:43 With those components hooked up, we can go ahead and put our grommet back in, reinstall our drivers side assembly. We are back inside the vehicle here and you can see our modulite box is kind of hanging freely from where we made our connections through the tail light. There is double sided tape on the back of the modulite box that we can use to adhere it to the inside of the vehicle. Or you can see on the sides here we have got some holes that we can use some self tapping screws to mount to the metal here. Considering its position I am going to go ahead and do that. With the modulite box mounted, we can go ahead and feed our green wire across underneath here and over to the passenger side tail light assembly where we are going to be hooking it up. We can also take the 4-pole as well and route it through that same opening. And then at this time we can also connect our larger lead black wire to the black lead on the modulite box itself. Again we can route it through the same opening that we routed the other two wires through and it is going to be connected directly to the battery. You may notice when routing your green wire across that the lead is not quite long enough for you. If that is the case, you may have to take an extra piece of green wire, like I am going to do here, and just extend it. 3:50 And with our green routed out behind the tail light assembly, we just want to go ahead and connect it to the right turn wire which, again, on this side is the green wire. Okay, we can reinstall the passenger side tail light now. Go back to the center and attach it to the battery. To gain easier access to our battery here, we want to go ahead and remove this protective shroud. There are three screws holding it on. With the battery exposed, we can go ahead and pick one of the terminals here to connect our black wire to. I am going to use the accessory one over here to the side. We just simply want to remove the nut from the top. Then we want to take our fuse holder and we are going to cut it in half. The one side we are going to connect the ring terminal to and that is going to go directly to the battery. The other end we are going to connect the butt connector and it is going to attach to our black lead here. For this larger modulite wiring harness we are going to be using the 15 amp fuse that is provided with the modulite itself. Then we just want to take the wire ties that are provided with our installation kit and go ahead and zip tie up any of the access wire that we may have. Next we are going to put the cover back on the battery then we can go ahead and start reinstalling the interior of the vehicle. Again we are going to leave the 4-pole in the center compartment for the time being and I can show you how we can go ahead and pull that out when we want to use it. With the vehicle reinstalled again, you can see our 4-pole here. When you want to use the 4-pole, you can simply pull it out the rear hatch of the vehicle. The weather stripping here on the back side will prevent the wire from being pinched. And with that, that will conclude the installation of modulite wiring harness part number 119190KIT.
30 Oct 2010
1556
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9:26
*******www.etrailer****/tv-Install-Wiring-2003-FordEscape.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today we are going to install part number 118343 from Tow Ready, and we are going to install this T-1 connector on a 2003 Ford Escape. First we will show you where the tail light connections are going to be. The connections are actually going to be physically on the back side of the tail light itself, and you are going to have to make connections on both sides of the vehicle. And what happens is that the wire harness is going to below a tail light, underneath the bumper, and out to the center of the hitch. So let us go ahead and get started. We will open the back hatch and we will take off these two screws here. Then we can take off the tail light. Just be careful that you do not break those tabs, because they do break kind of easily. The T-1 is going to connect to two points on the passengers side. It is going to use this connection here for the running lights and the brake signal. And then there is this gray connector here that is going to pick up the right-turn signal. And to make it a little easier to work with, go ahead and take off these connections and just disconnect the light completely. Just be careful on these tabs because they break kind of easy. Pull them up just a little bit and then work them back. Now, what is going to happen next is we are going to take our T-wire harness and run everything straight down and out the bottom: the 4-pole, the little converter box, and the yellow wire that we run over to the drivers side. We will just all that down inside. In a few minutes, we will go ahead and pull it out the bottom. Now we will make our wire connections to our wire harness on the vehicle. The first one off is we will make our connection with the green wire. That is going to be our turn signal circuit for the right turn. So we will go ahead and plug that into the appropriate socket. We will just snap it into place, and then this will go back into the tail light. And the next one we are going to hook up is going to be the one with the red and the brown. And the red is going to be our stoplight wire, and the brown is going to be for the running light wire. We will put that back onto the matching connector on the harness. So, when all is said and done, you should have three empty ins - one, two, three - two off the T-connector, and the factory one for the reverse light, and our leftover ground wire, which we are going to attach directly to the sheet metal behind the tail light. All right, we can go ahead and make our connections now, back to the tail light. All right, remember that the green wire is going to go to our turn light signals, so that is going to be that connection there. Then our last one: the red and brown will go to this connection here, which is the running light and the brake signal. And then we can go ahead and reinstall the tail light. We have got our wire harness hanging out below the bumper here. Let us go ahead and pull it around - or pull it out - and we will just run it across, behind the bumper fascia to our hitch. Just run it across for now. We will take up all the slack later. Then we will take our yellow wire, which is going to the left-turn signal, and we are going to run that all the way across, too, to the other side. Back to our converter box, where you can barely see, there is a flat piece of sheet metal right here where we can actually attach it to. So we will clean that off a little bit and then adhere the converter box to it. All right, next we are going to use a simple piece of wire, or string - whatever you want - and we are just going to run the wire down, out the bottom, and hook up and just wrap it around one of the leads and then we are just going to pull it back up through. And then again, we will make our connection for the left-turn signal, which is the gray connector right here. And at this point, we have got plenty of extra wire here, so we can take up our slack and just zip-tie it to the harness. All right, we will hook them up again - the reverse light circuit, turn signal circuit, and the running and brake light circuit. And let us go ahead and reinstall the tail light. All right, now we can go back down to the bottom and take up our slack there. And this can be adjusted to whatever suits your trailer needs. You may need just a little bit, like we have here, or you may need a lot more. You might want to double-check that and just take your extras and just put it to the back side of the fascia support here. Then we will just take some extra zip-ties and just attach wherever we need it to keep the wires out of harms way. What you want to do next is go ahead and test the harness with a light tester, independent of the trailer, just to make sure your vehicle is working OK. And you can try out your trailer. All right, and there you have it for part number 118343 from Tow Ready.
30 Oct 2010
914
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6:37
*******www.etrailer****/tv-This-Old-Trailer-Wiring-Shorts-Part2.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Now we will move on to another circuit. In this case it will be the right turn circuit. And we will just check the signal on that. On the right turn signal here again, the same principle applies. Start from the front and work you way back. What happens a lot is that on some of these lights here where the wire gets ran in behind it, there is a channel that these wires fit into. However a lot of times, even on brand new trailers. This wire actually does not fit in the channel, they miss when they put it together. The wire gets smashed between the light and the frame of the trailer. Eventually they wear down to a minuscule spec of wire that is visible but it will cause a short and all kinds of headaches. This came to be a perfect example. All right you see the green wire here that has actually been flattened compared to the brown wire which was sitting in the track like it is supposed to. This green wire here was smashed. And you can tell because there is a very small dot of copper wire. It is flushed with the surface of the installation so that was touching the frame and that causes our short. Even this could be intermittent maybe the right bump could make it short out or it could be just permanently there and you will be blowing fuses left and right. So this is kind of a bright color so this break in the insulation was pretty recent. So basically there is two ways about it. Put in another section of wire or if there is enough slack in here you can probably just cut off the offending part of the wire and just reinstall it into the light itself. Which I think is what we will do in this case. To take out the wires here, there is these little holes on the bottom and they push back on the tabs that hold the wire in place. A perfect tool for this is actually an eyeglass screwdriver. You can use a piece of stiff wire to do the same job. In fact this one just came right out. So we do not have to worry about that one. We are still going to remove the brown one too just to have some more working room for now. We might as well check that one too. So, we will just put our wire in there. Just push it in and then wiggle out the brown wire. There it goes. Part of our problem was here when you install these wires into the light always twist these tight it makes the little tab work better. If it is loose like this, it will just flatten out and the tab will release over time. So we will just go ahead and just cut of the offending sections here. Make them both even and reinstall the wires. All of these little things can add up to a little short and a lot of headache. Think of it as these are your usual suspects to check out first when you have a problem. That is what we do in the shop. All basic steps we do. 03:13. Get them twisted and put them right back into the labeled holes. This one is labeled brown so we will go ahead and install it in the brown spot. Okay same thing with the green where right turn is labeled. Okay make sure your wire goes back into the track. Maybe a piece of tape to hold it in place would work too. As long as you keep tension on it you can go ahead and reinstall the light. Another way you can tell you have got it right is your light will fit flush against the frame bracket here. Give it a test run. Go ahead and check our repair and give it a quick test run here. Okay, the next short we are going to talk about is the bulb inside here. Sometimes on these trailers the lights bounce around so much that the bulb itself gets jarred loose. So sometimes you want to go ahead and take it apart and check that. So we will go ahead and take the lens off. When you go to inspect your bulb take a look at the filaments themselves. Make sure it is level. Most lights, when they are set up properly, the filaments will be in a level spot. If it is a little bit crooked like that, that is where you can get a short to come into play. Or one circuit will work. The running light will work but the turn signal will not. We are actually going to turn it to the left a little bit and then work the bulb out. Now if it was really corroded up inside there, you probably want to use some gloves to take this out. When you put the bulb back in make sure that the pins are in the right way and take a look at the slots in the light fixture itself. If you put it in backwards you are going to be mashing this thing pretty far in there and it will be sitting at a really odd angle. Something like this, see how the filaments are at a goofy angle. That means you will not get a circuit working or you will be causing a short. Or if you have it just far enough we will contact through the bulb we will actually cross both of the contacts behind it. Just make sure that you have everything. Your bulb is good and is clean inside there. That is another unusual suspect that you want to check out. Make sure you put the bulb in the correct way. It should have some friction but once you get past it it should twist relatively easily in the bulb. Once it is properly seated it really should not move around too much. Now we got it. Okay and we got the running light. One other thing that could actually cause a short I see from time to time is this little bulb on the inside here, the running light one. I think it burns out. You take it out. Sometimes those little contacts will actually touch each other inside there and cause a short that way too. The inspection is completed on this light so you can go ahead and just reassemble the lens on it. 06:37.
30 Oct 2010
556
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3:44
*******www.gavinmikhail****/freesongs GET THIS COVER ON iTUNES! *******raiseyourglass.gavinmikhail**** LISTEN TO FULL STREAMS OF ALL MY SONGS! *******ryglisten.gavinmikhail**** WHY I COVERED THIS SONG... *******rygstory.gavinmikhail**** I'D LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU ON FACEBOOK! *******www.facebook****/GavinMikhail My other YouTube covers include: I Will Follow You Into The Dark (Death Cab For Cutie Cover), New Divide (Linkin Park cover), The Climb (Miley Cyrus / Hannah Montana Cover), Life After You (Daughtry cover), Two Is Better Than One (Boys Like Girls Ft Taylor Swift Cover), Give Me A Sign (Breaking Benjamin cover), Just The Way You Are (Bruno Mars Cover), and Strip Me (Natasha Bedingfield cover). Aside from Raise Your Glass, other hit songs by P!nk include Get The Party Started, There You Go, Don't Let Me Get Me, Just Like a Pill, Family Portrait, Trouble, Stupid Girls, Who Knew, U + Ur Hand, Dear Mr. President (Ft Indigo Girls), Leave Me Alone (I'm Lonely), So What, Sober, Please Don't Leave Me, Funhouse, Bad Influence, I Don't Believe You, Glitter in the Air, Whataya Want From Me, Fuckin' Perfect, Heartbreak Down, Gonna Make Ya Move (Don't Stop), Most Girls, You Make Me Sick, Feel Good Time, God Is A DJ, Last To Know, Nobody Knows, and Cuz I Can. with lyrics: RAISE YOUR GLASS P!NK / PINK Right right, turn off the lights We're gonna lose our minds tonight What's the deal, yo? I love when it's all too much 5am turn the radio up Where's the rock and roll? Party Crasher Panty Snatcher Call me up if you a gangsta Don't be fancy Just get dancey Why so serious? So raise your glass if you are wrong In all the right ways All my underdogs We will never be never be anything but loud And nitty gritty dirty little freaks Won't you come on and come on and raze your glass Just come on and come on and raise your glass Slam slam, oh hot damn What part of party don't you understand Wish you'd just freak out Can't stop, coming in hot I should be locked up right on the spot It's so on right now Party Crasher Panty Snatcher Call me up if you a gangsta Don't be fancy Just get dancey Why so serious? So raise your glass if you are wrong In all the right ways All my underdogs We will never be never be anything but loud And nitty gritty dirty little freaks Won't you come on and come on and raise your glass Just come on and come on and raise your glass Won't you come on and come on and raze your glass Just come on and come on and raise your glass So if you're too school for cool And you're treated like a fool You can choose to let it go We can always, we can always Party on our own So raise your glass if you are wrong In all the right ways All my underdogs We will never be never be anything but loud And nitty gritty, dirty little freaks So raise your glass if you are wrong In all the right ways All my underdogs We will never be never be anything but loud And nitty gritty dirty little freaks Won't you come on and come on and raise your glass Just come on and come on and raze your glass Won't you come on and come on and raise your glass Just come on and come on and raise your glass for me Distributed by Tubemogul.
3 Nov 2010
2003
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2:48
*******www.etrailer****/tv-wiring-install-2006-ford-taurus.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2006 Ford Taurus we are going to install wiring harness part number 18002 from Tow Ready. This is a 4-pole flat car end, 60 inches long with the wire taps. Our install is going to begin on the inside of the trunk and we will get to the wiring harness, which is located on the passenger side of the vehicle, behind the carpeting. :18 This is our main wire harness. We will pull away the tape that leads to the main wires. You can double check that it goes to this tail light and also to the opposite tail light. What you want to do first is make a ground so we have something for our tester to work off of. There is not really a body ground in there. The ground goes into the body here. :40 Okay we will start testing our wires. First we will check the running light circuit. Go ahead and turn it off to make verify it is the right one. No more signal, so that means that is our running light circuit. That is the brown wire so we can go ahead and make our first connection to that. What we will do is use our wire tap here, also known as a scotch lock, and all it does is snaps over one wire, and the other wire slips in right next to it, and t hat metal piece in the middle cuts through the plastic and make a connection between the two. A squeeze of the pliers and that is it. Now we will do the left turn signal. Alright it looks like the left turn is green with a red stripe. So we will connect our yellow wire for left turn to the wire we tested. Now we will move on to the right hand turn signal. That looks like orange with a blue stripe, so we will connect our green wire to that. And again, we will double check our connections. Green for right turn, all right lets do left turn. 1:53 Okay we are all good on that part so all we have to do now is make a ground. Use a simple ring terminal, strip back the wire, and we will redo the ground. The 4-pole will get stored in the trunk area when it is not in use. When you do need to use it, pull it out and shut the lid on it. This door seal right here is thick enough where it will not hurt the wire. Just stay away from latches and you will be fine. Pull out what you need to get to the trailer hitch. And with that, that finishes our install of part number 18002 from Tow Ready.
4 Nov 2010
895
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2:17
*******www.etrailer****/tv-wiring-install-2001-gmc-safari.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2001 GMC Safari we are going to be installing four pole harness part number 18002. We are in the rear cargo area of the Safari here and this particular vehicle has a factory installed tow package on it. The tow package is located over here on the passenger side of the vehicle inside the jack storage compartment. Remove the door and look under the jack, you can see there is a bundle of wires here. This is our tow package :25 We are going to pull it out and cut back the tape, you can see we have plenty of lead here because what you need to do is when you want to use the harness is pull it out the rear of the vehicle. We are going to cut back the tape to expose the wires. With the wires exposed you can see we have multiple wires here, enough for a full 7 pole harness. Since we are only installing a four pole we are only going to be needing the four primary colors, which are going to match up with the colors on my 4 pole here. :54 We have the white being the ground, brown being the running lights, green being the right turn and right brake, and yellow being the left turn and left brake. We are just going to wire those in color for color. The harness comes with standard scotch locks, i prefer using butt connectors so I am going to use those instead. To use those I am going to strip back some of the jacketing on each one of the wires. Go ahead and one of the wires in the butt connector and crimp that down. Insert the corresponding wire from the 4 pole and slide it in the other end and crimp that down. That will make our connection for us. We just want to repeat that for all four wires. Then tape up your connection points. With our wires taped up, essentially our 4 pole is installed. 1:43 Again, I want to show you real quick how to route the wire out. You are going to need to close the rear doors and pull your harness out the top and close the hatch on it. You want to avoid the metal latch, but the weather stripping here will prevent it from being pinched so you do not have to worry about that. You can see I can still move it out freely. With that, that will conclude the installation of wiring harness part number 18002 on this 2001 GMC Safari.
23 Nov 2010
1761
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2:56
*******www.etrailer****/tv-wiring-install-2009-chevy-equinox.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2009 Chevrolet Equinox we are going to be installing wiring harness, part number 118432. We are in the rear cargo area of the Equinox and we are going to locate the port that we are going to be pulling the wiring harness into. This is an open ended port, which is located in the floor area of the jack storage compartment. The first thing we need to do is remove the door here and also remove the jack. I will set that off to the side for the time being. :27 It is going to be kind of hard to see, but if I pull the insulation up here, and you take a look inside, you can see the open ended port that is located right there at the bottom area, almost directly below where the jack was stored. What we are going to do is take our open ended wiring harness plug here and plug that directly in. you can see also, that you have an open ended white wire, which is our ground wire. If you look down there again, you can see there is a grounding stud located just to the forward side of where our plug is located. :53 With the port and grounding stud located , we can start installing our harness. To remove the nut off the grounding stud you are going to need a 10 millimeter socket. That is all there is to installing it here at the rear section of the vehicle. You can see the four pole, when not in use can be stored inside the storage compartment. When we want to use it we can just pull it outside the rear cargo door. The weather stripping here at the backside will prevent that from being pinched, so you do not have to worry about that. From there, I am going to remount the jack in the storage compartment, and then we are going to go up under the hood and connect our fuses and relays into place. 1:25 We are up underneath the hood now and we have located our fuse block that we need to plug our fuses and relays into place. This fuse block can be located over on the driver side, just forward of the fire wall here. I am going to go ahead and lift the lid on it. If you look at the backside of the lid, all our fuses and relays are numbered in position. We are going to start by plugging our relays into place. We are looking to plug in our relays at position 58 and 59. These relays are going to activate our right turn and right stop leads and our left turn and left stop leads. When plugging the relays into place, we want the slope side of the relay facing towards the driver side of the vehicle. 2:05 There are three fuses that we need to plug in place as well. These, again are provided with our installation kit and are all 10 amp fuses. For these we need to locate fuse positions number 35, 37, and 43. Position 35 is located right here. Position 37 is located right here. And fuse position 43 is located right here. With the two relays and three fuses in place all of our leads in the tow package should be active now. We want to reinstall the lid to our fuse block and our installation will be complete. This will conclude the installation of wiring harness part number 118432 on a 2009 Chevrolet Equinox.
23 Nov 2010
822
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3:30
*******www.etrailer****/tv-Wiring-Harness-Install-2010-Subaru-Outback.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Alright, today on this 2010 Subaru Outback, we are going to install part number 118467 from Tow Ready. OK, the first thing that we need to do is get in the back of the vehicle. We need to open the trunk area. Alright, we will take out the floor panels. Start with this cover here. Now we have to take out the Styrofoam parts too. And we are going to work our way down to the sheet metal here. And then we are going to remove this piece of Styrofoam here, There are a couple of little plastic rivets. 0:51 Now our wire harness is probably going to be tucked in underneath this plastic right here, or this felt. It is kind of hard to get to so we are actually going to just take our panel loose. We are going to start off with the threshold here. We are going to pop it off an lift it way back. Alright, we will have to take out these tie-down loops right here. There is a little plastic cover on the inside. And just pop it off. And there is a bolt inside here. Now we will lift this up, out of our way. OK and we should be able to reach up underneath here. And you can pull it out and there is our connection. 1:36 Next we will take our wire harness. We are just going to plug it together, just like this. Then we are going to take our wires and our converter box and we are going to tuck it underneath the covering here. And actually we are going to attach it to the sheet metal underneath here, using an adhesive that is provided. Alright, we will extend our 4-pole cable out. And at this point, we will start reassembling our interior. Alright, when we put this component back in, we want to keep our wire harness above it so we can get to it easier. 2:11 Alright, at this point, I will show you how to use the wire harness. All you have to do is pull this center section up. Pull the harness out a little bit. And then just let it sit back down. Then you shut the hatch on the wire because the weatherstrip is thick enough to where it will not get damaged when you close the door on it. And the main thing is to just keep it away from the center latch. And pull out as needed to your trailer. When you are not using it, keep it in the storage compartment here, or in the well. And that way it is not sitting out all of the time, getting corroded, when you are not using it. 2:45 OK, the last thing that we need to do is go ahead and test our wiring. We are going to use a light tester before we try it on a trailer. So we will hook our ground to our ground lead right here. Ground will be white. First off we will start with our running lights and that will be the brown wire. OK, that is good. Then we will try our left turn which will be yellow. And then green will be our right turn. And brakes will be yellow and green. Alright, we know our harness is good. We can go ahead and try it on a trailer now. Alright, and with that, that will finish our install of part number 118467 from Tow Ready.
24 Nov 2010
1946
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3:40
*******www.etrailer****/tv-Wiring-Harness-Install-2004-Saturn-Vue1.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2004 Saturn Vue we are going to install part number 18002 from Tow Ready. On this vehicle we are going to attach it to the factory tow package. We will get in the back of the vehicle. The tow package is located inside the vehicle on the driver side behind and below the jack storage compartment. Then we will remove the jack itself. Follow this wiring harness down a little ways. You can see the tow package wires themselves. There will just be bare ends of wires right here. 00:33 When you pull out the tow package wiring you are only going to get these five loops right here. The black color is going to be your ground, the green is going to be the right turn signal, the brown is going to be your running lights, yellow is going to be left turn, and the light blue wire is going to be reverse lights. We are installing a 4-pole flat so we do not need reverse lights so we will just take that and put it out of our way. If you want to verify the functions of the wires which is always a good idea. 00:58 We are going to take a light tester and verify the running light circuit first. That is the brown wire so you have got that turned on. So we know that is our running light circuit. On the 4-pole flat it is going to be nice that the wire code is almost identical. Brown is going to be the running lights, yellow is going to be left turn, and green is going to be right turn. However for ground that is going to be white but we are going to run that down to the black wire. Or what might be better is attach it to the sheet metal on the inside of the vehicle for ground. We will make our connections first for our running light circuit. That will be brown to brown. We are going to be using the provided scotch locks to make the connection. Just put them side by side and then just squeeze them together with some pliers. 01:47 Now we will double check ourselves with the left turn signal. That is yellow so the left turn on our 4-pole flat will be yellow also. Now test the green so we know that is the right turn so the right turn on the 4-pole is going to be green also. On our white wire we are going to just use a good old ring terminal that we got separately. We are just going to attach it to the sheet metal using the self tapping screw. We have got the hole started. Now lets snug it down. We will hook up our tester to this ground now since we grounded to the sheet metal right here and we have got our right turn still working so we will test that. We are good there so that tells us our ground is good and we have got right turn. Then we will try left turn. Then we will go back to our running light circuit and it looks like we are good there too. At this point we will just tuck our wires back out of the way, reinstall our jack, and when we are not using our 4-pole harness we can keep it in the jack storage compartment. When you are ready to use the 4-pole flat wiring you can just pull off the cover, pull out the harness, and just pull out what you need. You can also put your compartment door back too if you would like. It just snaps into place. Then just shut your door and stay away from the latch and pull out what you need. The door seal is plenty thick where it is not going to hurt anything to shut the door on it. Then you can pull this down to your trailer. With that, that will finish our install of part number 18002 from Tow Ready.
24 Nov 2010
1313
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4:55
*******www.etrailer****/tv-Wiring-Harness-Install-2010-Chevrolet-Equinox.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2010 Chevrolet Equinox we are going to install part number 56094 from Curt. This is their T-connector wiring kit. The first step involved, open up the rear hatch and we are going to have to get to the rear tail lights. Right now we are looking at the driver side tail light and what is going to happen is we are going to take off these two covers here and these have fasteners behind it to disconnect the tail lights. We are going to do this on both sides of the vehicle. Be careful when you pop these off, they can be kind of fragile. These will just pull off. Now to disconnect our tail light we are going to disconnect its junction point right here. Push down on this tab right here and it should come right apart. Now we are going to go over to the passenger side and do the exact same thing. 00:50 To start installing our T-connector harness we are just going to take our 4-pole and it behind the bumper cover and out the bottom. I have got two T-connectors here. The one with the yellow and brown wire is going to stay over here on the driver side. The green wire and the white ground wire is going to go below underneath the vehicle over to the passenger side. So we are going to take this part and it down through the tube. For the T-connector here for the driver side we are just going to push them together and leave it like that and this other half is going to plug back into the tail light. We can reinstall the tail light. It just snaps back into place, get the tail light back in. Put the caps back into place. Now lets go underneath the vehicle and route our wires across. 01:44 Now we are going to take our passenger side T-connector and our 4-pole and we are going to route it behind the bumper cover across to the other side of the vehicle. The 4-pole itself of course will stay by the hitch. We are just going to pull that through and leave it like that for now and continue on with our T-connector going across to the passenger side. Take the T-connector and just push it up as far as we can and reach from the top down and pull it out. If you can not push it up far enough to reach it to the top you can use a piece of wire and grab a piece of the wiring harness and just pull it on up. We have got the connector, just like the driver side we will just push it back together and then with our ground screw we will attach it to the sheet metal right here. We are going to use a self tapping screw to attach to the sheet metal. 02:57 Lets reattach the light just like we did on the other side. Lets go back underneath the vehicle and tie up our wires. We will start off by taping up our electrical bundle. Just make it nice and neat and go up as far as we can with it. We will slip on our little 4-pole cover right here, just pull over and pull the cover around the chain loop and we will leave it like that for now and we will bundle up the rest of our wires. There is a nice little hole in the sheet metal right here that we have got to attach our wire to. One on each side for that. It might be a good idea too to run the zip tie around the hitch itself to secure the wiring to the hitch. We will just trim off our excess and we will be good to go. All that remains now is to test the install with a light tester first and then we can try it on the trailer. Take the ground clamp and go to the ground on the 4-pole. We will start off by testing the running light circuit and turn on the headlights. Then we will try the left turn signal. Then we will try the right turn. Now we will do the brake signal which we should have constant green and yellow wires. That verifies that our wiring harness is working and then we can try it on the trailer. With that, that will finish our install of part number 56094 from Curt.
25 Nov 2010
727
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4:55
*******www.etrailer****/tv-This-Old-Trailer-7-Pole-Install.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on This Old Trailer we are going to replace the wiring on this trailer. Right now, this trailer has a 5 pull socket here and the owner uses a patch cord in between here and his tow vehicle. What we are going to do is remove all this and add a 7-way cable that leads right to his tow vehicle. We will be using part number H20046. We will unbolt the connector here. Then we will go ahead and untape it and undo the screw right here, it should release the inside part where the pins are and the wires are connected. Tale that, push everything out. Simply disconnect our wires. 1:04 Now we have our bare wires, we will go over the code real fast. White is going to be your ground wire. Blue is going to go to the lock-out switch on the hydraulic brake controller. Yellow is going to be left turn. Green is going to be right turn. Brown is going to be your running lights. Now we are going to take our wire harness and thread it through the front here, try to guide it back to the hole where the socket was. We will take it and pull it on out, it is an 8 foot length, so we really do not need all of that. We will pull out some, and hook up our other end of the 7-pole to the tow vehicle and see how much slack we need. 1:53 We will use some tin snips to cut off our excess length. Cut the sheath so we can get to the wires. No we will strip back the wires on the ones we are going to use. We will use this green wire, red wire, yellow wire, brown wire, and white. We will not be using the black wire or blue wire since there are only 5 wires being used on the trailer. It is pretty tempting to match up the wires color for color, but you really can not do that because the 7-pole connector actually has a separate wiring code. In this case, green is going to be our running light circuit on the 7-pole, and on our trailer it is going to be brown. So we have to make the conversion. We will go ahead and start off by making our connections with that. To make our connections we will be using little connections called butt connectors. The wires butt together and we crimp them in place. Our next wire on the 7-pole is brown which is our right turn signal, and is going to hook up to green on our trailer, which is right turn. Red on our 7-pole connector is going to be our left turn signal, and the left turn on our trailer is going to be yellow. Next, we will work on our white wire that is the ground on the 7-pole, that will actually match up to our trailer so we will be doing white to white. Okay, our last wire is yellow on our 7-way connector which is the reverse lights and then on our boat trailer it is special so it is going to be the blue wire. 4:11 Now what we are going to do is tape this all together and seal it up for good. Tuck everything back in. We are going to wrap a zip tie around it which will help hold it in place. That will keep it extra secure. We will just leave this open, and now we are set. With that, that will finish our install of our 7-pole connector, part number H20046 on This Old Trailer.
25 Nov 2010
1372
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