Prolapse Valve Mitrail Distributed by Tubemogul.
Assembling the valve box or installing the valve box is fairly straight forward. Usually there is a little bit of cutting involved in order to fit the box over your pipes. Sometimes you have to cut out a piece of a side, or sometimes you don’t have to cut out anything if the pipes are deep enough in the ground. But in our case our holes are perfect for our situation and we just cut out the slivers of plastic and they fit right in over our pipe. And then you will make your final placement after your valves are fully installed.
So, now we are ready to start out valve box. We’re going to show this in close to real time because it’s a fairly important part of the process and one of the more technical parts. So, here I am cutting 3 to 4 inch pieces of Schedule 40 High Pressure PVC Pipe so that I can use them as connectors to my T’s and elbows when putting together the three valves that we have for this system. Of course, you’ll want to clean each piece before assembling with PVC cleaner. And once again, we’re using fairly quick dry glue. This is a valve and so I’m going to begin with gluing the valve to the pipe. And every valve system is going to be laid out probably just a little bit different, just depending on how many valves you have and where they are located in your system. In this particular system, we are going to put all the valves in one valve box. You can run the valves out to your individual zones and put a valve right at the beginning of each zone. In that case, you would need to take your main line all the way to the beginning of your zone. In this particular case, we are going to take our main line just a few feet and put all of our valves in one box.
So, I’ve laid out how I want my valves to lay in the valve box, and now I’m just gluing it together piece-by-piece making sure that the valves are pointing in the right direction. Just showing you that there are arrows on the valves there on the front and the back showing you the direction of the water. You want to take your mainline and hook it to the rear of the valve so that the water is going through the valve in the right direction. So, we’ve got valves one, two, and three. I’m putting an elbow on the last valve since there won’t be any water going passed that. And that’s how I want to put those valves together.
So, I’m going to use my cut pieces and just get ready to put all the valves together in a line to hook it up to our main water.
So, now that we’ve assembled this, we’re ready to go to the exit point of the water. I think he’s trying to explain that you want to have plenty of distance between the valves. He said there’s a couple of inches of pipe between the valves there and you definitely want to leave a little bit so that if you ever have a break in the future, you’ll be able to cut each individual valve out if necessary and still have something to glue to. So, always leave two or three inches of bare pipe between the valves and between your T’s and your elbows so that if you every have to cut one out, you’ll still have an inch or two to glue that back together without having to take all of the valves our and replace them all.
Once again, use plenty of length on your cut pieces. We’re going down about four or five inches on this one. So, two of these valves are going in the same direction. Two of the zones are going to be going from the valve in the same direction to achieve their positioning. So you notice how one is longer than he others, that’s so the pipes can lay side-by-side in the trench.
Now, this valve is going to be facing the opposite direction. So, it won’t be getting in the way of the other two pipes. If you have multiple valves, if you have more than three, or more than three going in the same direction, you’ll have to extend those out **** pipes each time, or you can actually bring one of them out and then go up above the pipe, which would req...
This is your solenoid right here and a quarter turn opens it, once there is pressure on it, and a quarter turn closes it. So if your solenoid goes bad you can unscrew this and replace the whole solenoid. But if this inside goes bad then you can take this right here, stick it on there and close the manual valve that closes the whole thing off.
We also have a manual cutoff to the entire system, which is put before the backflow valve. It’s just a regular manual ball valve and it’s kind of low in the ground in this particular instance, so we’re going to add a piece of four inch corrugated pipe so that we can reach down deeper than the depth of our actual box, our valve box there and turn that off.
So there you see the little pipe. We’ve cut it to fit in place and over the valve, the manual cutoff. And then we’re going to bury that at the height of the dirt or soil or grass that we need.
Okay, it’s time to put our drains in. Each year, most people want to put some sort of winterizing drain so that they don’t leave their system water filled over the winter. In this particular case, we’re going to put in some automatic drain. There’s pluses and negativities to automatic drains versus manual drains, but we’re going to let ours drain automatically.
So, I’m going to cut each valve after the valve. I’m going to cut the line and I’m going to put in a 1 inch to a
Okay it’s time to wire our system. I’m just showing you the different, the colors of the wires here. I use red, white, and blue as my first three zones. It’s just easier to remember, red, white, and blue, one, two, three. Strip your wires down and give yourself plenty of working room there. I’ve got about 5 inches and then you’ll just use a pair of electrical pliers and strip your wires about a half inch on each wire.
Now the red, white, and blue will be my hot and I’m using my black wire as the common wire. So each valve has two wires coming out it. It does not matter which one you use for common, just grab one of them. The hot wire is not as important when it comes to valves versus say lighting or something.
So I have three values, I’m going to take three of the wires, or one wire from each valve equally three. And I’m going to hook all three of those up to my common. We’re using waterproof connectors. There are several different kinds of waterproof connectors, these are just filled with some sort of water sealant, and they’re regular electrical connectors with a water sealant inside of them. So we’re going to hook, those are commons, three commons hooked up to our black wire.
There are some that you can insert the entire end of the wire into a grease filled cap and close it. These are just a little faster. Now so I’m going to take my first zone, what ever I want to be zone one and I’m going to hook it up to my red wire. So then zone two will be white. Take the remaining wire that is left from that valve and then we’re going to do the same thing with zone three, the blue wire.
Now that we’ve got all of the wires hooked up, you want to pull a little bit of extra slack out of the your main line. The black wire there and so you can put it into the valve box so that later when you get ready to work on it again or change something or change the wiring, you’ll have room to pull it outside of the valve box, just wrap a little bit there. And then lay your wire, your black wire into your ditch, into your trench that you’ve already got dug. Run it over to where you want it to enter the house. And then we just use an electric or a hammer drill to drill through the wall where we need to drill through. And we take the wire through the wall. And then we’ve got out control box inside the garage in this particular instance.
So we pull our wire through and now we’re ready to wire up our control box. Once again, we just strip the ends of the wire. And pull the black rubber covering. Now we’re going to use the same red, white, and blue wires. So any excess wires that you have in this case the green and the yellow, we’re going to cut those off just to get those out of the way. It makes for less confusion. So we’re going to strip about half inch, you could strip maybe a quarter of an inch when you’re hooking up to the control box depending on what control box you use. And in each control box usually they’re very user friendly. One of them will say common or COM. And so you’re going to hook your common up to that area, which is our black wire. And then they’ll just generally be a one, two, and three for your different zones. So in our particular case we’ve got red, white, and blue for zone one, two, and three.
He’s having a little trouble with his common there. You don’t want to cut too much of the plastic covering off in this particular case because if you do your wires can touch inside of the manifold. So we’re just using about, about a quarter of an inch. Sometimes you’ll have to cut the wires at different lengths just to get it to fit in the valve box the way you want it.
Okay now we’ve got those connected one, two, and three and this particular controller is using an AC outlet so we’re going to hook our AC power up, which it’s pretty straig...
This is a short guide made by me, that shows You how to increase FPS in Counter Strike Source and in other Valve games (ex.: Team Fortress 2).
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Medical Tourism video testimonial about low cost, high quality mitral valve replacement overseas provided by medical tourism company WorldMedAssist (*******www.worldmedassist****). The doctor is renowned dr. Naresh Trehan of Apollo Hospital in Delhi. The patient is Mr. Henry Konczak from the US. Please visit: *******www.worldmedassist****/Heart-Valve-Surgery-Abroad.htm
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A professionally managed organization, Bell Hydromatics is a leading manufacturer and exporter of hydraulic control systems, hydraulic power pack, industrial hydraulic systems, hydraulic cylinders, hydraulic systems, industrial hydraulic control systems and manifold blocks with valves. Distributed by Tubemogul.
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Type R with aBlow off valve at Crail
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The valves should be adjusted every year.
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